When Kraemer & Kin opened as the first brewery in the Champlain Islands in February, co-owners Christie, Levi and Heather Kraemer hoped to establish a tasting room within a year. Despite the global pandemic, it took them only five months to achieve that goal.
On Friday, July 3, the family-owned microbrewery will open a tasting room inside the GreenTARA Space art gallery and community center at 3275 U.S. Route 2 in North Hero.
Henry Mizrahi (left) and Isaiah Palmeri in front of Little Gordo Creemee Stand
What's better than a creemee stand? A creemee stand that also serves burritos.
Taco Gordo will take its takeout business to the next level this Tuesday, with the opening of Little Gordo Creemee Stand in the former Union Scoops window at 71 South Union Street in Burlington.
Customers at the walk-up window can expect housemade creemees; blended, candy-filled "wizards"; and bulging burritos. Picnic tables are available out front, but the tiny spot has no indoor seating.
Vermont dairy in the Farmers to Families food boxes
The USDA has awarded contract extensions to two Vermont-based organizations distributing Farmers to Families food boxes to those in need due to the coronavirus pandemic.
Of the additional $8.5 million awarded, the Abbey Group, a family-owned food service management company based in Enosburg Falls, received just over $8 million. The balance went to Willing Hands Enterprises, a Norwich-based nonprofit that serves the Upper Valley. This brings total program contract value to Vermont organizations to almost $14 million.
My husband cannot understand why we still need a landline. There are several reasons, but one is that I have a message saved in the voicemail system from October 1, 2014.
It is my friend, Barb, calling about my fruit crisp recipe. Apparently, I had written it on a piece of graph paper at least a decade prior, which sends us back to the very early 2000s.
"Every time I make the crisp," she said in the message, "I pull out this piece of paper you wrote the crisp topping recipe on, and there's your handwriting and it's so lovely."
Barb suggested that I write something about "the recipes that we get from our friends that are scrawled on pieces of paper."
She also said that when I first wrote the crisp recipe down, I reassured her how easy and basic it was in a way that was both encouraging and, as she put it, implied, "Be braver, young cook!"
It made me think that I rarely hand-write a recipe to give anyone these days, though I am constantly giving recipes to people. I'm usually printing out a copy of something I've written up for publication, or maybe sending a photo of a spattered page with some scrawled suggestions or changes I've made over the years.
Melissa Pasanen
Rhubarb fresh cut from the garden
This recipe for strawberry-rhubarb crisp is one of those that I've scrawled, published and printed out for more than a dozen friends and family members over the years.
In October, 2014, Barb was making an apple crisp. The topping works for any fruit, of course, but my rhubarb plants are still producing abundantly, local strawberries are ripe and the pairing is classic for a very good reason.
I hope the recipe serves you as well as it has served Barb.
Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp
Ingredients
12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for greasing (sub: non-dairy butter for vegan)
4 cups hulled and halved strawberries (about 3 pints) (sub: pretty much any fruit for a total of 8 cups. If using anything other than rhubarb or sour cherries, ½-¾ cups sugar should be plenty)
4 cups sliced rhubarb (about 1 pound)
1½ cups granulated sugar
1¼ cups all-purpose flour (sub: for gluten-free crisp, 2 tablespoons cornstarch for the flour tossed with the fruit, and oat or almond flour for the topping)
2 cups rolled oats
1 cup light brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans, optional
Directions
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 13-by-9-inch (or equivalent) baking dish with butter.
In a large bowl, toss together the strawberries, rhubarb, granulated sugar and ¼ cup of the flour. Evenly spread the fruit mixture in the prepared baking dish.
In the same bowl, stir together the remaining 1 cup flour, oats, brown sugar and cinnamon. Add the chopped nuts if using. Using your hands, smush the butter into the mixture and squeeze it together until it clumps. Evenly spread the clumps over the fruit, pressing down lightly.
Place the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any juicy spills and bake until the topping is golden brown and the fruit juices bubble, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool about 5 minutes before serving.
Serve warm with ice cream if desired.
Source: The Little Local Vermont Cookbook: Recipes for Classic Dishes by Melissa Pasanen (W.W. Norton, 2020)
One of Vermont’s oldest craft breweries is leaving the state.
Magic Hat Brewing will shift production from its South Burlington digs to a Rochester, N.Y., brewery owned by its parent company, FIFCO USA. As part of the move, nearby Zero Gravity Craft Brewery will buy Magic Hat’s equipment and take over its leased space on Bartlett Bay Road.
Magic Hat’s 43 brewing and operations employees in Vermont will lose their jobs but will be considered for open positions with Zero Gravity, FIFCO said in a press release Tuesday. The deal is expected to close on July 1.
“With the capabilities and capacity of our new brewery and the evolution of Magic Hat, moving the production to Rochester provided the best long term opportunity,” FIFCO CEO Rich Andrews said in a statement. “We have been brewing a portion of Magic Hat in Rochester for nearly a decade. Having one brewery with new equipment, creates consistent, high quality beer that our Magic Hat consumers have come to expect.”
Fishing has always been a social-distancing activity and, during a global pandemic, it's a great way to get outside. Cleaning and cooking what you catch, though, can be an intimidating task.
"With COVID-19 raging around us, we were brainstorming ways to engage folks in the local food movement while also making sure that they were staying safe and staying healthy," Shane Rogers explained.
Rogers is the Farm to Plate communications manager and an on-screen personality in Vermont Wild Kitchen — from his own home kitchen.
The videos cover everything from wild turkey with foraged and farm-fresh sides to fish tacos and nettles. They encourage people to spend time outside experiencing nature in ways they haven't before — sustainably, of course — while celebrating how people eat local food in their own unique ways.
"Wild food carries this connotation as sometimes being scary, or perhaps dangerous," Rogers said. "It certainly can be, if you're not smart about it, but what we wanted to do with Vermont Wild Kitchen was show that if you take the time and learn about the plants and animals that you're harvesting, it can be a really fun activity to do on your own or with your friends and family. And, it's also really delicious."
The isolation of the pandemic, as well as concerns about disruptions to food supply chains, got people thinking seriously about where their food comes from, Rogers noted.
"As they dove into that topic, they not only found that Vermont has an abundance of local food — and that our farmers are working so hard to feed our communities — but also that Vermont has an abundance of wild foods," he said. "With a question here or there and a little bit of research, the forest turns into something completely different from what they've experienced before."
There's plenty to forage in the woods, but if you find the water beckoning as the weather heats up, fishing can be just as approachable. Fish & Wildlife makes it easy to get a fishing license online, and the department's website is full of great resources for finding fishing holes around the state.
Want to cook what you catch? "We want to help people get over the hump of how easy it is to process a fish," Rogers said. "The actual cooking is as simple as salt, pepper and a hot cast-iron pan."
This video clip from Vermont Wild Kitchen, led by Fish & Wildlife's Corey Hart, demonstrates how simple it can be to process and cook trout.
It's as easy as that! Once you've processed your trout, there's a whole school of ways to cook it.
The cooking method detailed in the video calls for trout, onion salt, garlic salt and butter. To follow along, get your cast iron (or other pan) hot, and throw in a chunk of butter. Sprinkle the onion and garlic salts on both sides and inside the processed trout. Once the butter is bubbling, place the trout skin side down in the pan and cook on each side for 3 to 4 minutes, until the skin is nice and crispy.
This fish dish pairs well with the locally grown greens that are now popping up in farmstands, farmers markets, gardens and grocery stores. Add a maple-balsamic dressing, and you've got a full local, seasonal meal. As Rogers said, "Salad and fish, there's nothing that really beats that!"
Jordan Barry
The Little Local Vermont Cookbook by Melissa Pasanen
If you've had a successful fishing trip (or trip to the grocery store's fish department) and are looking for another recipe, Seven Days writer Melissa Pasanen has your back.
"There's nothing quite like the thrill of finding your own food in nature (just make sure you do so with knowledge and a fishing license!)," Pasanen writes.
If you're in a store rather than a stream, she suggests looking for small butterflied trout and purchasing them "gutted and boned, without the head, and with the two fillets still attached along the back." If you're in the stream, you'll have to take what you can catch.
Grilled Trout With Watercress Butter
Makes 4 servings
Ingredients:
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
4 whole butterflied brook or rainbow trout (6 to 9 ounces each)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 cups watercress, coarsely chopped
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons minced ramps or scallions, white and green parts
1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
Garnish: fresh watercress sprigs and lemon slices
Directions:
Heat a grill to medium-high. Cut two pieces of foil about 12 by 18 inches and drizzle half the olive oil in the center of each. Pat dry the skin of each trout and season the outside of each with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and generous grinds of the black pepper.
Open each trout like a book, flesh side up. Place two on each piece of foil.
In a medium bowl, mash together the watercress, butter, ramps, lemon zest, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and a few more grinds of black pepper. Divide the butter mixture roughly in fourths and, using your hands, shape each portion into a small log. Place one log in the center of each open trout and fold each trout closed.
Bring the sides of each foil packet together in the center around the two trout, lying side by side. Fold the foil over and seal each packet well.
Grill the trout in packets, turning once, about 5 minutes per side. The fish is done when it flakes easily with a fork. Remove from grill.
Serve on a bed of fresh watercress with the lemon slices.
Pastry chefs and bakers around Vermont are joining what might be the biggest and most impactful bake sale ever: Bakers Against Racism.
Organized by high-profile Washington, D.C., pastry chefs Paola Velez , Willa Pelini and Rob Rubba, Bakers Against Racism is raising money for organizations working to end systemic and structural racism — via an international, old-fashioned (albeit virtual) bake sale on Saturday, June 20.
Shrimp with tomatoes and white beans served over greens
This easy, speedy meal has been a staple in my cooking repertoire for longer than I can recall. Thanks to quick-thawing frozen shrimp, canned diced tomatoes and white beans, and the Vermont feta I almost always have in my cheese drawer, it takes fewer than 45 minutes and one pan.
Occasionally, I plan ahead and even cook my own white beans, which are definitely more delicious than canned. But usually I'm just proud of myself if I can remember to thaw the shrimp in the fridge overnight. That shaves total dinner prep time down to about 30 minutes.
I make the recipe through every season. In the cooler months, I toss it with pasta, mound it on quinoa, or spoon it warm over baby kale that wilts just enough from the heat of the shrimp's garlicky-lemony juices.
In warmer weather, I often use fresh tomatoes in place of canned and serve it at room temperature over a green salad with crusty bread.
Normally, I try to search out wild-caught American shrimp from the Gulf. An unexpected pandemic development is that reduced restaurant demand has made farm-raised Vermont shrimp from Sweet Sound Aquaculture currently available direct to consumers for pickup at the Charlotte operation.
Melissa Pasanen
Vermont farm-raised shrimp with tomatoes and white beans
In April, I drove to Charlotte and picked up a couple pounds of sweet, juicy, shell-on locavore shrimp. When I used some in my standby recipe, I left the shells and heads on to save time and get it on the table fast.
A few nights ago, I made it again with shelled Gulf shrimp.
Both were delicious, though the latter was a bit neater to eat.
Shrimp With Tomatoes and White Beans
Serves 3 to 4
Ingredients
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, divided
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 fat cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon coarse salt, divided, plus more to taste
Good pinch crushed red pepper or Aleppo pepper flakes
1 pound small to medium shrimp, preferably shelled (see thawing tip below if frozen)
About ¾ cup sliced leeks (sub: sliced scallions, diced onion, sliced shallots)
1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved (sub: 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes)
1 teaspoon dried oregano (sub: 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves, plus. more to garnish if desired)
1 (15.5-ounce) can white beans, drained and rinsed (sub: Cook beans from scratch; it's worth it, but takes planning.)
Directions
In a medium bowl, stir together 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 tablespoon olive oil, minced garlic, ½ teaspoon salt and crushed red pepper. Add shrimp and stir to coat well.
In a medium sauté pan or skillet set over medium heat, heat remaining tablespoon olive oil and add leeks. Cook, stirring once, until softened, about 3 to 5 minutes.
Stir in cherry tomatoes, oregano and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes have collapsed and given up some of their juices, about 5 to 7 minutes. Gently fold in white beans and cook for a couple minutes just until warmed through. Taste and add salt as desired. Scrape tomato and bean mixture into a serving bowl.
Put sauté pan back on stove over medium-high heat. When a drop of water skitters on the surface of the pan, add shrimp with all the marinade and spread evenly around pan's surface. Cook, tossing once, just until shrimp is cooked through, about 4 to 7 minutes depending on size.
Pour shrimp and cooking juices over white bean mixture. Sprinkle with remaining teaspoon lemon juice and serve over greens, pasta or quinoa as desired.
Tip: To speedily thaw frozen shrimp, take them out of the bag and submerge them in a bowl of cold water set in the sink and keep the faucet running. Depending on size, they should thaw in about 15 minutes. Dry them as well as you can with paper towel before proceeding with the recipe.
Growing radishes has given me a false sense of confidence in my gardening skills. I was one of those Vermonters outside in mid-April, bundled up and digging in the dirt. Most good advice was telling me to stay inside while the ground warmed up, but instead of listening, I planted an entire seed packet of French breakfast radishes on April freaking 19th.
Jordan Barry
French breakfast radishes fresh from the garden
Radishes were my most successful crop last summer, too. Those didn't make it into the ground until mid-July, when I was finally settled back in Vermont after six years of failing to grow anything but mint on fire escapes in Brooklyn.
Between these two questionably timed plantings, the spicy early risers have my thumbs feeling rather green (as long as I don't look too closely at whatever's going on with my beets).
To keep up with the radishes as they poke their pink shoulders out of the soil, I've been eating lots of salads and buying butter in bulk. One of the raddest things about radishes, though, is that their green tops are edible, too. And, yikes, do I have a lot of greens.
When I have an overwhelming bounty of any semi-sturdy green, I tend to ask myself, Will it pesto? In the case of radish tops, the answer is "It sure will."
I like to keep my radish-top pesto light and lemony. The result has a vegetal greenness that pairs nicely with other delicate spring flavors. I've used it as a base for an ad-hoc asparagus-radish tart (see serving suggestion, below), as a spread for sandwiches, and as a topping on an experimental pizza with grilled asparagus from Pomykala Farm and squeaky cheese curds from Sweet Rowen Farmstead.
Jordan Barry
Asparagus-radish tart with radish-top pesto
This is a flexible — and storable — recipe. It would work as a pasta sauce or in a potato salad. The ingredients, too, can be dealer's choice. No sunflower seeds? Try pine nuts, walnuts or almonds. Want to make it vegan? Leave out the parmesan. Feeling wild? Add garlic or ramps. It keeps well in the fridge for a couple weeks, and can be frozen if you want to revisit the taste of spring throughout the year.
And, much like growing radishes, throwing pesto ingredients in a blender and whizzing them all together is easy, satisfying, and a real confidence booster.
Radish-Top Pesto
Ingredients
3 to 4 cups of radish tops, broken off from radishes, rinsed and dried
About a handful of shredded parmesan (to taste)
About a handful of sunflower seeds (sub: pine nuts, walnuts, almonds)
1/2 cup olive oil
Lemon juice (to taste, between half and a whole lemon)
Salt and pepper to taste
Directions
Place all ingredients in a blender or food processor
Blend until smooth (note: blending in batches works if it doesn't fit all at once)
Serving suggestion: To prepare an asparagus-radish tart, roll out pie dough into a rough rectangle. Spread radish-top pesto in an even layer over the dough, stopping an inch from the edge. Place asparagus stalks and halved radishes in alternating rows (pretty!) on top of the pesto and drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper. Fold the edges of the dough over, brush with egg wash and bake in a preheated 400-degree oven until the crust is golden brown, about 30 to 40 minutes. Serve with a crumble of goat cheese on top.
A little free pantry on Loomis Street in Burlington
On upper Loomis Street in Burlington, in front of a big, pink-flowering rhododendron, is a little food pantry stocked with spaghetti sauce, soup, pasta, canned chili, baby food, peanut butter, chocolate almond milk, and other nonperishable items.
A sign on the front-yard food stand reads: "Little Free Pantry / Take what you need. Share when you can."
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