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Tuesday, April 30, 2019

Rising in Vermont: Backdoor Bread Launches With a Pop-Up Sale

Posted By on Tue, Apr 30, 2019 at 11:57 AM

Loaves from Backdoor Bread - MELISSA PASANEN
  • Melissa Pasanen
  • Loaves from Backdoor Bread
After 18 years of building their Providence, R.I., bakery up to three locations plus a commissary kitchen, Lynn and Jim Williams sold Seven Stars Bakery and decided to move to the country.

“Now was the time to realize Jim Williams’ dream of being a whole-grain baker in a country barn,” wrote the Providence Journal, announcing the sale in November 2018 of the “iconic artisan maker of olive bread, durum sticks and pastries.”

Vermonters can thank motorcycles, mills and good schools for leading the Williams family to Charlotte, where they're launching Backdoor Bread with an afternoon pop-up sale on Monday, May 6, at Philo Ridge Farm.

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Friday, April 26, 2019

Sweet Eats Kick Off Vermont Restaurant Week

Posted By on Fri, Apr 26, 2019 at 6:15 PM

All the desserts entered in the 2019 Sweet Start Smackdown competition - STEPHEN MEASE
  • Stephen Mease
  • All the desserts entered in the 2019 Sweet Start Smackdown competition
Vermont Restaurant Week kicked off in super-sweet, sticky-sweet style on Thursday night at Higher Ground,  site of a friendly dessert competition.

The Sweet Start Smackdown pitted mocha cupcakes against lavender cookies, blueberry buzz buckle against chocolate vulvas.  In all, 10 sweet concoctions competed in the edible showdown with winners picked by the taste-testing, finger-licking crowd and a panel of three judges.

The Winners: Laura Johnson & Amber Corey from The Essex, Culinary Resort & Spa - STEPHEN MEASE
  • Stephen Mease
  • The Winners: Laura Johnson & Amber Corey from The Essex, Culinary Resort & Spa
Triple citrus mascarpone mousse from the Essex won first place. This treat stood out for its bright flavors and masterful technique. The orange mousse with lemon curd filling set on a basil-lime cookie  was  also notable for  ingredients it didn't contain: chocolate, caramel and gluten.

Laura Johnson, the 23-year-old pastry chef at the Essex Resort & Spa, said she was thinking of “spring flavors” when she conceived of  the dessert. “I’m not a big chocolate person,” Johnson said. “And I like the idea of triple citrus.”

Johnson won her first cooking competition at age 9, when her tropical sorbet was the victor at her elementary school showdown in Santa Cruz, Calif.
Triple Citrus Mascarpone Mousse Bite (GF): Orange-infused mascarpone mousse, with a lemon curd core, on a basil lime cookie. The winning dish from Laura Johnson & Amber Corey of The Essex, Culinary Resort & Spa. - STEPHEN MEASE
  • Stephen Mease
  • Triple Citrus Mascarpone Mousse Bite (GF): Orange-infused mascarpone mousse, with a lemon curd core, on a basil lime cookie. The winning dish from Laura Johnson & Amber Corey of The Essex, Culinary Resort & Spa.
Thursday night, Johnson and her co-worker triumphed over second-place finisher Birchgrove Baking of Montpelier. Birchgrove’s salted caramel almond cake packed a two-bite wallop of flavors and textures that crunched, popped, smushed, oozed and delighted. In third place was the seasonal offering of Eveleyne’s on Center in St. Albans: a sugarhouse cake dripping with maple and topped with whipped cream.

Despite the sugar highs that accompanied the event, the dessert crowd was a mellow one. Bartender Kris Hardy, who said he pours shots of whiskey and tequila nonstop at Higher Ground concerts, didn’t serve one shot Thursday night. It was a wine and seltzer kind of night, he said, with some vodka and sodas thrown in.

“It’s more relaxed and laid-back compared to the chaos of a rock and roll concert,” Hardy noted.

One attendee, Hannah Mills, stayed up past her bedtime to attend the Sweet Start Smackdown with her mother. A South Burlington second-grader, Hannah ate and rated every offering. Scoring the sweet eats on a scale of 1 to 10, she bestowed her highest mark — 8 — on the chocolate stout cupcake from Sweet Babu in Winooski.

Eating 10 desserts in one night is a lifetime record for Hannah, who described the activity this way: “It might be a bit much, but it was fun to try them all.”

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Friday, April 19, 2019

Dining on a Dime: Maxi's Restaurant

Posted By on Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 2:52 PM

Soup and sandwich at Maxi's - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Soup and sandwich at Maxi's
In the half hour that I sat at the lunch counter at Maxi's Restaurant in Waterbury, I went from being called “sweetie” to “sweet pea.” To top it off, the waitress who brightened my day with these easy-flowing endearments was named Angie! (If there’s a better song than “Angie,” I can’t think of it right now.)

Angie did everything else right, too, with an assist from the sandwich maker who made my roast beef on rye with Swiss cheese. (If there’s a better cheese than Swiss, I can’t think of it right now. Why doesn’t anyone in Vermont make it? HMU if you do.)

But let’s back up.

Maxi’s, at the roundabout off  I-89 Exit 10 in Waterbury, was buzzing when I walked in at 12:30 p.m. on Thursday. The tables were full, so I took a seat at the long concrete counter.

The hostess brought me a menu and took my drink order: seltzer and cranberry juice. Maxi’s has a full bar and local beers on tap, but the little kid eating a stack of pancakes at a nearby table kept me on the straight and narrow.

I scanned the menu, took a sip of my soda, and the server appeared.

“Hello, sweetie,” she said. “What can I get you?”

I ordered a cup of soup and half a sandwich, an $8.25 special.

As she headed to the kitchen with the ticket, my waitress told me: “My name’s Angie, if you need anything.”

Soon she was back with the goods: thick, spicy chicken gumbo with rice, sausage, and some green peppers and onion. The rare slices of roast beef on my sandwich came with the classics: lettuce, tomato, cheese and horseradish mayonnaise.  I asked for just a little mayo, and that’s what I got.

As I finished eating, a man took a seat a few stools away. He placed his order and Angie remembered it was the same thing he got the last time he ate lunch at Maxi's.

"Yup," the customer replied, smiling. “And the time before that, and the time before that.”

Curiosity got the best of me and I asked the man what he orders at Maxi’s. I learned from the diner, Ryan Foster, that it's the Jess wrap:  chicken tenders, cheddar cheese, lettuce and barbecue sauce in a flour tortilla. Foster subs out the side of fries for mac and cheese made with gouda.

"It's just delicious," he said.  But Foster told me there’s another reason he likes to eat at Maxi’s. “It’s a friendly environment," he said.  "You always see friendly faces.”

Angie saw that I was ready to go. “Be right there, sweet pea,” she said, before dropping off my check.

I felt like I’d gotten a promotion.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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Wednesday, April 17, 2019

Dolce VT Food Truck Owners Open New Restaurant, Poco, in Burlington

Posted By on Wed, Apr 17, 2019 at 4:17 PM

Pork belly on pita (left) and Thai grilled chicken - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Pork belly on pita (left) and Thai grilled chicken
Fans of Dolce VT's truffle fries and fried chicken sandwich no longer have to eat outside the Maltex Building  on Pine Street in Burlington, where the popular food truck has often been parked in warmer months. The business has a new name, Poco, and a permanent location: 55 Main Street in Burlington.

Chef/co-owner Stefano  Cicirello opened his restaurant on April 11 in the space that most recently housed Doughnut Dilemma. He owns Poco with his sister, Susie Ely.

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Friday, April 12, 2019

Hissho Sushi Arrives at City Market's Two Stores

Posted By on Fri, Apr 12, 2019 at 2:28 PM

Ryan Kang (left) and Phong Shin of Hissho Sushi - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Ryan Kang (left) and Phong Shin of Hissho Sushi
A new sushi concession will open at City Market, Onion River Co-op on Saturday, when Hissho Sushi launches its business at both locations of the Burlington food co-op.

Hissho Sushi, based in Charlotte, N.C., operates 1,400 locations nationwide,
according to Ryan Kang, the regional manager. The City Market locations are
the company's first sites in Vermont, he said.

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Thursday, April 11, 2019

Morning Light Bakery Opens in Winooski

Posted By on Thu, Apr 11, 2019 at 11:55 AM


Left to right: Yu Fei Cheng and Ann Wong at Morning Light Bakery - COURTESY OF KEN LIU
  • Courtesy of Ken Liu
  • Left to right: Yu Fei Cheng and Ann Wong at Morning Light Bakery
Ken Liu’s parents will miss their son’s naturalization ceremony Thursday
afternoon in South Royalton. The couple is occupied with a milestone of their own: They opened a bakery Thursday morning in Winooski: Morning Light Bakery.

“It’s OK,” Ken, 21, told Seven Days before driving to Vermont Law School to
become a U.S. citizen. “I’ll take selfies and send them.”

Morning Light Bakery, at 106 East Allen Street, is a self-serve shop that
specializes in Asian pastries, sweet and savory. The bakery, at the site previously occupied by Dobra Tea,  is owned and operated by Ken’s parents, Ann Wong and King Chiu Liu. The family emigrated from Hong Kong eight years ago and settled in Essex Junction. (Ken's parents became U.S. citizens before their son did.)

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Tuesday, April 9, 2019

It Was Raining Cones at Ben & Jerry's in Burlington

Posted By on Tue, Apr 9, 2019 at 7:00 PM

Left to right: Alivia Roth, Lissy Sumner, Lucy McLaughlin, Camryn Muzzy, Tess Barker at Free Cone Day - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Left to right: Alivia Roth, Lissy Sumner, Lucy McLaughlin, Camryn Muzzy, Tess Barker at Free Cone Day
Freezing rain was the topping du jour at Free Cone Day, the annual global event when Ben & Jerry's gives away ice cream cones to celebrate another anniversary.

The crowd that gathered Tuesday at about 2 p.m. at the scoop shop on Burlington’s Church Street seemed happy to overlook the weather — 31 degrees and a steady rain — in favor of what awaited at the front of the line.

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Dining on a Dime: Easy as Cake

Posted By on Tue, Apr 9, 2019 at 1:20 PM


Klobasnek and soup - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Klobasnek and soup
The menu prices at Easy As Cake, a café and bakery in Colchester, end in the number nine. A baby quiche is $3.99; a Greek salad, $7.99; pesto and tomato popover, $8.99, grilled cheese sandwich, $6.49,  French toast bake, $5.99.

The list slowed me down mathematically but revved up my appetite.  I stared at the chalkboard menu for a prolonged spell, doing addition in my head to put together a meal that came to $12 or less. (That’s the Dining on a Dime price limit.)

As I played with food and money combos in my mind, the counter person (and daughter of the owner) waited patiently. When at last I’d nailed down my choice to a hand pie — a house specialty — she steered me to spinach-artichoke ($6.99). I paired this with a bowl of  Cuban black bean soup ($4.99) to clock in at $11.98, not including tax.

The soup was thick and rich with flavor, blended to a consistency of part purée, part chunky. It had a spicy snap — cumin, cayenne, chili powder  — but also earthiness. A hand pie at this sweet little café goes by its central European name: kolache for a sweet one filled with traditional ingredients such as poppy seed, pecan or apricot-prune; klobasnek for a savory pie stuffed with kielbasa, Philly cheesesteak or spinach-artichoke.

Either way, a hand pie is characterized by a sweet and buttery pastry. The vegetable spread in my klobasnek was more accompaniment than equal player.

The afternoon last week when I ate lunch (near closing time) at Easy as Cake, I was the only customer in the restaurant. This got me a window table and a chance to talk with chef/co-owner Jeff Goller.

Jeff and Brooklynn Goller with raspberry kolache - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Jeff and Brooklynn Goller with raspberry kolache
Goller and his wife, Nicole, opened Easy as Cake in December in the spot that most recently housed Malletts Bay Diner & Bakery. Jeff is a landscape architect and cook; his kolache recipe comes from his grandmother,  who emigrated from Slovakia at age 16. Nicole is a baker and cake decorator who also owns a quilt and sewing shop in Colchester called Sunny Laurel Sisters.

Opening a bakery and restaurant was a kind of  natural progression for the Gollers:  Jeff knew his way around kitchens “backward and forward" as the son of a professional (his father was chef at Amherst College) and a pro himself who’s worked in restaurants off and on for years.  "It's in my blood," he said.

In addition, the Gollers had built a little business baking cakes for people in their home kitchen — a gig that developed after they made their own wedding cake for their September 2018 marriage. Jeff baked the tiered layers; Nicole decorated it with colorful bursts of flowers.

“We merged all our talents,” Jeff said.

The pastry case at Easy as Cake displays those merged talents. The left side holds hand pies made by Jeff; Nicole’s side of the case holds sweets including lemon-glazed donuts, whoopie pies, chocolate chip brownies, blueberry muffins and macaroons.

I hit my $12 limit before I had a chance at dessert. But Easy as Cake was offering free samples of chocolate-caramel brownies the day I ate there, so I happily helped myself to a few of these chewy delights.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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Sunday, April 7, 2019

Vietnamese Street Food Coming to Downtown Burlington

Posted By on Sun, Apr 7, 2019 at 5:54 PM


Pho - COURTESY OF PHO SON
  • Courtesy of Pho Son
  • Pho
A Vietnamese restaurant will open in downtown Burlington next month, when Pho Son takes over the space at 213 College Street. The location was vacated last January by Bueno Y Sano.

Owners Son Le and Jennie Yee, a husband-and-wife team who live in South Burlington, will run the 40-seat restaurant together. Pho Son will specialize in authentic Vietnamese street food, said Le,  the chef.  Dishes will include pho, the traditional Vietnamese soup known for its rich and aromatic broth, banh mi, vermicelli with char-grilled meat, and stir fries with rice and seasonal vegetables.

“All the best recipes are from the family,” said Le, whose previous restaurant experience was in Montréal.

“For Vietnamese people, food is our life,” he wrote in an email to Seven Days. “We are forever eating, cooking and talking about food. Food is communication — food is culture.”

Beverages will include bubble tea, beer and wine. A full-service restaurant, Pho Son will be open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

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