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Monday, March 26, 2018

With New Pastry Chef, Honey Road Gets a Little Sweeter

Posted By on Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 6:40 PM


Chocolate-date cake at Honey Road restaurant - COURTESY OF HONEY ROAD
  • Courtesy of Honey Road
  • Chocolate-date cake at Honey Road restaurant
Diners at Honey Road restaurant in Burlington have likely noticed additions to the dessert menu in recent weeks. They're the creations of new pastry chef Amanda Wildermuth, 29.  She had been working in that role at Monarch & the Milkweed since it opened in August 2016.

“They [Honey Road] were looking to expand, and I jumped at the opportunity to be the pastry chef,” Wildermuth said. “I think Honey Road is an amazing restaurant, and Cara and Allison have a really great thing going here.” She was referring to co-owners Cara Chigazola-Tobin and Allison Gibson.

Since assuming her position about a month ago, Wildermuth has expanded the offerings by riffing on modern desserts and giving them a Middle Eastern twist and flavor. She's also making  traditional desserts, and the pita and crackers that are served with dips that typically start a meal at Honey Road.

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Dining on a Dime: Iconic Chicago Sandwich at Farmers & Foragers

Posted By on Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 7:04 AM

The new Bacon Loretta sandwich offered by Farmers & Foragers food truck - MELISSA PASANEN
  • Melissa Pasanen
  • The new Bacon Loretta sandwich offered by Farmers & Foragers food truck
Who could ignore an email promising "other level bacon deliciousness"? I already had plans to be at the University of Vermont around lunchtime last Thursday, so I made my way to the Farmers & Foragers food truck parked, with several others, on University Place above the green. I had to try the Bacon Loretta, F&F's brand-new sandwich offering.

I hit a snag when I saw on the full menu description that it included the only ingredient I avoid if possible: green bell peppers. But I got over myself when I understood that they were a critical part of the whole package.

And, I have to admit, they work very well in this messy, satisfying $8 sandwich. The Loretta combines four thick slices of perfectly cooked North Country Smokehouse bacon with dollops of housemade roasted garlic and sage aioli, melted provolone and a generous scattering of diced sweet onion, tomato and green pepper. It all adds up to a perfect balance of salty, fatty, creamy, crunchy, bright flavors and textures that the best dishes achieve, whether a food truck sandwich or high-end restaurant entrée.

It turns out that this sandwich has a story, too. Adam Korn, who had sent the email, recently relocated to Vermont, but is originally from the northern suburbs of Chicago, as is the Bacon Loretta. The sandwich was invented at a legendary greasy spoon called Sarkis, where it's often ordered topped with a fried egg and accompanied by cheesy hash browns.

Korn described the diner and its most famous sandwich as having a "cult following." He and his friends even rented out the place for their pre-prom dinner.

"I think the story goes that Loretta was a regular who ordered a specialty BLT," Korn explained in a follow-up email. "It evolved from 'BLT Loretta's way' to Bacon Loretta. Could be legend, but that was the story."

When Korn moved to Vermont, he kept badgering his friend and food truck co-owner, Sol Bayer-Pacht, to try out the sandwich on his menu. Finally, last week, he prevailed by making an example for Bayer-Pacht and his partner, Lauren Johnson, to try.

The menu board at Farmers & Foragers food truck featuring old and new favorites - MELISSA PASANEN
  • Melissa Pasanen
  • The menu board at Farmers & Foragers food truck featuring old and new favorites
Bayer-Pacht admitted that, while the Bacon Loretta sounded fine in concept, "it didn't jump out to us" — until he and Johnson tasted it.

It also filled a niche; during the truck's winter and spring lunch schedule at UVM, he said, "We're always thinking about things for students looking for substantial lunches at a reasonable price."

To stay true to their mission of high quality ingredient-sourcing, F&F upped its Bacon Loretta game with regional bacon and their own homemade mayo.

It's not clear yet whether the Bacon Loretta will become a Farmers & Foragers menu staple or just a special on rotation. Early signs suggest it will appear fairly regularly through the end of April at UVM (Monday to Thursday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. or so), and on Thursday nights starting April 5 at Foam Brewers. (Check Farmers & Foragers' website or Facebook page for the weekly schedule.)

"It out-sold our cheesesteak on its first day," Bayer-Pacht said of the Bacon Loretta with some surprise, noting that the Philly icon is the truck's signature item. He attributes its beginner's success to social media hype, a cool name and, of course, bacon.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com

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Friday, March 23, 2018

Windjammer Closed Until Sunday Due to Norovirus Outbreak

Posted By on Fri, Mar 23, 2018 at 6:47 PM

The Windjammer - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • The Windjammer
The Windjammer Restaurant and Upper Deck Pub in South Burlington are closed until Sunday at noon as the Vermont Department of Health investigates a norovirus outbreak at the restaurants.

The department has been investigating the outbreak since Tuesday, when it first received reports of people with gastrointestinal illness, said Bradley Tompkins, the department’s food-borne epidemiologist. In all, there have been nine confirmed cases of norovirus and more than 50 reported illnesses, he revealed. In each case, the person who became ill had eaten at the Windjammer or affiliated Upper Deck, Tompkins said.

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Thursday, March 22, 2018

Is it Summer Yet? Previewing the Pioneer Food Truck

Posted By on Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 5:45 PM

Lindsay Taylor, Pioneer Food Truck - COURTESY OF PIONEER FOOD TRUCK & CATERING CO.
  • Courtesy of Pioneer Food Truck & Catering Co.
  • Lindsay Taylor, Pioneer Food Truck
While it's technically spring as of Tuesday, nature clearly missed the memo. But let's not let that stop us from dreaming of warmer days, in all their sunshine-y, warm-breezy, sun-dressing, food-trucking glory.

On that note, there's a new truck gearing up to hit the road in Burlington this summer and it's got a couple of foodie notables behind the wheel.

Pioneer Food Truck & Catering Co. chef-owner Jean-Luc Matecat recently wrapped up two years in the kitchen at ArtsRiot. His past includes time at the Inn at Weathersfield, Pistou and other well-respected locales. Lindsay Taylor, his partner in life and business, will oversee the service operations. She has served at Misery Loves Co. and Dedalus Wine Shop, Market & Wine Bar, among others, and is currently at Butch + Babe's.

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Willow's Bagel Bakery To Open in Downtown Burlington

Posted By on Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 2:21 PM


Tyler Bean at Willow's - LAUREN MAZZOTTA
  • Lauren Mazzotta
  • Tyler Bean at Willow's
A mini food court is taking shape in downtown Burlington, where a pizza place, a bar and a bagel shop  will soon share a building at 71 South Union Street.

The pizzeria, Folino's, opened in January on the west side of the brick building. The two other businesses — Stonecutter Spirits and Willow's — will join Folino's later this spring.

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Sunday, March 18, 2018

Dining on a Dime: A Taste of the Middle East at Mr. Shawarma

Posted By on Sun, Mar 18, 2018 at 12:16 PM

Falafel plate at Mr. Shawarma - MELISSA PASANEN
  • Melissa Pasanen
  • Falafel plate at Mr. Shawarma
More than 10 years ago, Vietnam Restaurant at 137 Pearl Street in Essex Junction became the area's first go-to destination for pho, the aromatic Southeast Asian noodle soup. Last December, the same no-frills, strip-mall location became home to a restaurant serving another favorite from far away: shawarma, the marinated, spit-roasted, thinly shaved meat served all over the Middle East.

Mr. Shawarma, as it is aptly (and not too originally) named, also offers other classics from the region, including chickpea falafel, freshly made hummus, tabbouleh and stuffed grape leaves.

Tabbouleh and hummus - MELISSA PASANEN
  • Melissa Pasanen
  • Tabbouleh and hummus
The new restaurant is a joint effort of four young men who all grew up in Iraq and came to the Burlington area with their families over the last decade. On my second visit, Sam (Usamah) Abdulkhaleq was the one who had to deal with my barrage of questions and my annoyance that, for the purposes of this column, many of the plates are priced just over the limit at $12.99. (They have since changed menu pricing and now everything seems to fall under that.)

Abdulkhaleq, who marks four years in Vermont at the end of this month, is the most recently arrived of the group. He is 28 and studying business at Community College of Vermont. "I couldn't go to school in Syria where we went when we had to leave Iraq," he said, "and when we moved here, I had to first learn English."

Sam (Usamah) Abdulkhaleq with a traditional dessert called kunefe - MELISSA PASANEN
  • Melissa Pasanen
  • Sam (Usamah) Abdulkhaleq with a traditional dessert called kunefe
Abdulkhaleq and his cousins, Aymen Aref and Ahmed Abdulkhaliq (a different spelling because transliteration of Arabic names is inconsistent, I was told) work together with their friend Ali Kareem.  "But we are really all family," Abdulkhaleq said. "We know how to make food and we want to share our food and our culture."

Among the dishes I have sampled on two visits, my favorite so far is the falafel plate, consisting of six large, crisp, well-seasoned falafel balls drizzled generously with tahini sauce. At $8.99, that also allowed me to add in an order of lemony, minty, rice-stuffed grape leaves for $2.99, or try the refreshing, salty yogurt drink ($1.99) from the cooler that Abdulkhaleq said was his favorite.

I also enjoyed the beef kebab sandwich ($7.99 when I was there, $5.99 on the current menu): pita tightly rolled around long, flat patties of spiced ground beef with some lamb mixed in, along with lettuce, tomato, pickles and tahini and garlic mayonnaise sauces. "At home, we make it with just lamb, but here people don't like that as much as beef," Abdulkhaleq said.

I liked it best when I deconstructed it so I could really taste the flavorful meat mixture, which had a whisper of grill on it. Now that the beef kebab plate is offered for $9.99, I'd recommend trying that and adding a side of labneh, the thickened, tart yogurt spread.

The restaurant's namesake shawarma, either beef or chicken, can also be ordered as a wrap sandwich. I will try one of those with the shrak, the thinner flatbread wrap option, next time I head there.

If dessert is your soft spot, I can highly recommend the small foil box of four different pieces of crisp, buttery, pistachio-dusted baklava for $4.99.  (It isn't overly sweet.) I especially liked the long pieces with sweetened tahini filling.

With the new menu pricing, you can also pick any of the wraps and afford a main course, too — unless, of course, $12 is not your limit.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com


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Saturday, March 10, 2018

Fast Pours for a Good Cause

Posted By on Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 12:27 PM

Sarah Barry at El Cortijo - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Sarah Barry at El Cortijo
At El Cortijo Taqueria y Cantina in Burlington,  where Sarah Barry is general manager and a bartender, she can mix a margarita in less than 60 seconds.

"I bet anyone who works behind the bar here can make a margarita in under a minute," said Barry, noting that the bar is set up for margarita-making. Pouring an old-fashioned could take up to two minutes, she said.

The time it takes to mix a drink is on Barry's mind as she anticipates competing in Speed Rack, a women-only bartending contest coming to Boston on Sunday, March 11.  Barry will be the only Vermont competitor among about two dozen female bartenders.

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Friday, March 9, 2018

Dining on a Dime: Pizzeria Verità

Posted By on Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 8:37 PM

Margherita pizza and margarita drink at Pizzeria Verità - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Margherita pizza and margarita drink at Pizzeria Verità
If you can't get to Florida for spring break, catch a mini wave of the Sunshine State in Burlington at Pizzeria Verità. The downtown eatery is offering a little in-house Margaritaville — two Margherita pizzas for the price of one ($13) on Mondays in the winter.

Officially, this deal comes to a close March 19 with the season's end (according to the calendar). But Pizzeria Verità co-owner John Rao says that if diners show interest in Margherita Mondays, the restaurant will likely keep the special running.

In addition to the BOGO pizzas, the pizzeria is serving $5 margaritas on Mondays. This week, the margarita menu included a terrific sweet-tart version mixed by bartender Chelsea Harris, who specializes in craft cocktails.  The pale-yellow Margarita di Saronno, served saltless, was made with El Charro tequila, Amaretto Disaronno,  agave and lime. This drink is worth a trip to the bar at full price.

Two-for-one Margherita pizzas - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Two-for-one Margherita pizzas
Two Margherita pizzas topped with velvety housemade mozzarella — along with two Margarita cocktails — set me and a friend back $23, not including tax and tip. We went home with four leftover slices. The restaurant was buzzing that night  — and Pizzeria Verità is best when it buzzes — as the kitchen turned out about 100 Margherita pies, according to Rao.

Pizzeria Verità is always a fun place to eat, and diners can count on fresh ingredients, creative build-your-own antipasto, an excellent (and big enough) Caesar salad, and top-notch service.  Starting in late spring, when Verità hitches up a new mobile pizza oven and hits the road, its pies will be available at local events and catering gigs, says Rao.

But for now, to indulge in this local Margaritaville, you'll have to venture to St. Paul Street.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com

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