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Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Dining on a Dime: The Little Red Kitchen's Quick Fix in Burlington

Posted By on Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 5:36 PM

The dining room at the Little Red Kitchen - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • The dining room at the Little Red Kitchen
When I stopped by the Little Red Kitchen — located at the intersection of Riverside Avenue and Intervale Road — on a Friday morning between breakfast and lunchtime, I landed in a lengthy conversation with owner Cheryl Strenio. Our talk ran the gamut of business, family and her much-sought-after Parmesan dip.

Strenio, who grew up in a family with 14 kids, is fun and no-nonsense. Her menu is, too. It includes breakfast panini and lunch sandwiches, soups and salads, the bulk of which cost between $7 and $8. Most of the offerings are classics: a Reuben, a Cuban, a turkey club. Grab 'n' go offerings include homey staples such as lasagna, chicken pot pie, cheeseburger soup and lots of variations on mac and cheese. BBQ-pulled-pork mac? Yep. Buffalo mac? That, too.

I opted for a ham, egg and cheese panino ($7.25) with garlic-basil mayo, and the hefty sandwich turned  out to be big enough for two meals. It was melty, hot off the press, and contained a sizable pile of meat.
A breakfast panino at the Little Red Kitchen - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • A breakfast panino at the Little Red Kitchen
Only one other person was in the dining room while I was there — a trucker who was pleased that he was able to park his semi nearby. But Strenio said that, during rush hour, the place is jamming, especially in the summer.

Nevertheless, in March, she's planning a little break from the deli biz in order to promote her Parmesan dip. The condiment is already in area stores and demand is high, she said. Strenio just shipped a case to Hawaii. Whenever she offers samples of the stuff at City Market, it sells out. She has high hopes that the creamy, cheesy stuff will be a big seller.

Strenio pulled out a pint container and invited me to try some, smeared on pretzel crackers. It was salty and delicious. I could see why she's proud of it.  

Looking at a selection of takeout salads in the deli case, I asked about the dressings and learned that the Caesar, poppy seed and ranch were not made from scratch. Strenio does have a Bourbon-maple variation that she concocts to order, as well as a vinaigrette, but the others come bottled.

Swing by for an affordable and filling sandwich, a slice of apple cake ($2.50), and good conversation with Strenio if time permits.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.


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Thursday, February 23, 2017

Margaritas and More at the Revamped Montpelier Mad Taco

Posted By on Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 9:00 AM

The redesign of the Montpelier Mad Taco - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • The redesign of the Montpelier Mad Taco
In December, we learned that the team behind the Mad Taco would be renovating the Montpelier location. Previously a Subway, the spot had retained a fast-food feel in its transition to tacos. Owners Joey Nagy and Wes Hamilton, also the team behind Cast Iron Catering, aimed to beautify the space and make it more inviting for lengthy hangouts, rather than quick drop-ins.

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Tuesday, February 21, 2017

Eggs Your Way All Day at P&H Truck Stop

Posted By on Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 4:00 PM

P&H Truck Stop: eggs, hash, toast - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • P&H Truck Stop: eggs, hash, toast
Vermonters who grew up out of state might recall family breakfasts at chrome-plated diners, where pages-long laminated menus offered eggs, French dip sandwiches, gyros and ice cream sundaes, accompanied by full-color photos of each dish.

Kids from here, however, are more likely to remember greasy breakfasts courtesy of shingled roadside shacks, summer snackbars and truck stops, where aging waitresses would offer O.J. in brown plastic tumblers and jiggly eggs mixed with cheddar cheese, served with home-baked bread.

On the eastern side of the state, P&H Truck Stop, just off of Exit 17 on Interstate 91 in Wells River, is a breakfast institution. Bakers prepare fresh breads and dozens of pies daily, made with old-fashioned shortening crusts and filled with everything from blueberries or apples to pecans, maple or coconut custard. The peanut butter cream is a local favorite. As teenagers, my friends and I would stop by for a late-night slice of pie or plate of French fries — the dining room was open 24 hours then.

Now, I mostly go for breakfast.

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Friday, February 17, 2017

Breakwater Café Closes, Will Be Second Location for the Spot

Posted By on Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 6:20 PM

Burger, fries and booze at Breakwater - COURTESY OF BREAKWATER CAFÉ & GRILL
  • Courtesy of Breakwater Café & Grill
  • Burger, fries and booze at Breakwater
Updated February 21 with additional details on the new Spot location.

This week, Al and Kim Gobeille announced via social media that they are closing Breakwater Café & Grill, the dockside pub at the bottom of King Street. "It is so hard to share the news that we have decided to move on as owners and operators of this great place," the couple wrote on Breakwater's  Facebook page.

Al Gobeille - FILE | MATTHEW THORSEN
  • File | Matthew Thorsen
  • Al Gobeille
Though they declined to cite a reason for the closure, the Gobeilles added that they'd continue running their other two waterfront businesses, Shanty on the Shore and Burlington Bay Market & Café. And they wished their customers and past employees "fair skies, light breezes and beautiful sunsets."

After playing phone tag with a reporter between meetings on Friday, Al Gobeille ultimately could not be reached for comment. That's not surprising: He's a busy man. In addition to running his restaurants, Gobeille chaired the Green Mountain Care Board since 2013. In December, Gov. Phil Scott tapped him to be secretary of the Agency of Human Services.

But all is not lost for the popular lakeside pub. This summer, it will be reborn as a second location for the Spot, confirmed general manager Shannon Lipkin. She said that owner Russ Scully plans to renovate the building and open in mid-May.

According to permitting documents filed with the city of Burlington on February 17, the new location will be called the Spot on the Dock.


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Dedalus Wine Shop, Market & Bar Debuts on February 20

Posted By on Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 1:21 PM

A tasting feast at Dedalus Wine - DEDALUS / JESSICA SIPE
  • Dedalus / Jessica Sipe
  • A tasting feast at Dedalus Wine
Raise a glass! The new Dedalus Wine aims to open its doors at 388 Pine Street on Monday, February 20. The longtime Burlington wine store is leaving its current quarters at 180 Battery Street for an expanded spot promising much more than just wine.

Along with an enormous range of bottles, the warehouse-size space — formerly home to Burlington Furniture Company — will also house a curated stock of charcuterie, imported specialty goods, cheeses and breads, plus a full-menu wine bar open seven days a week.

Dedalus owner Jason Zuliani recently gave me a sneak peek inside. Spoiler alert: My tour ended with a tasting of the current menu, which turned into a two-hour feast sluiced with wine samples and enough cheese to make even pro Catherine Donnelly blush. But let’s begin with the tour.

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Sunday, February 12, 2017

Duck Sauce: At Chan's House, Moo-Shi Mountains and Loaded Wonton Soup

Posted By on Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 5:12 PM

Moo-shi pork - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Moo-shi pork

Chan's House, Bradford: At a Glance

Owners' names:  Ling Cai "Mike" Chen; Li Juan "Lee" Chen
Owners' native city/province in China: Guangzhou (Canton), Guangdong
Prices: Soup, $2.50-$3.50; appetizers, $1.95-$9.75; entrées, $6.95-$12.95; fried rice: $5.25-$7.95
Lunch special: Most menu entrées, plus fried rice and appetizer, $4.50-$8.50
Drinks: Complimentary black tea is mild and roasty;  soft drinks, served in tall plastic tumblers; midcentury and tiki cocktails mixed strong; scorpion bowls make for a party.
Quirky dishes: "Chef's Special" lo mein boasts an array of vegetables, seafood and meats — and ham pieces.
Fortune cookie: To find yourself, think for yourself.

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Friday, February 10, 2017

Dining on a Dime: Sandy's Books & Bakery

Posted By on Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 6:22 PM

Sandy's Books & Bakery - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • Sandy's Books & Bakery
I wandered into Sandy's Books & Bakery at 30 North Main in Rochester for the first time last spring. I was on a hunt for The Gift of Southern Cooking: Recipes and Revelations From Two Great American Cooks — a landmark culinary tome by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock. And I'd heard through the grapevine that this two-story house decked in tea lights had a bountiful book selection.

I didn't find the book, but I did discover a go-to eating stop for journeys that take me over Bethel Mountain Road. The draw, other than a veritable treasure trove of new and used books, is that the fare at Sandy's is made from scratch, easy on the wallet and steeped in local products.

Discovering Sandy's Books & Bakery began with running into Peacock at the Craftsbury General Store a month or so earlier. Peacock, the James Beard Foundation Award-winning southern chef, was grabbing a sandwich before a talk with the famed food writer Ruth Reichl at Sterling College. At the time, I didn't know I was waiting for my turkey sandwich next to one of the most noted chefs in southern cooking; I grew up reading The Gift of Southern Cooking like a much-loved bedtime story.  Somehow, we started chatting about biscuits; he said he loved to make them. I asked if his were any good.

I realize, in retrospect, that I had just asked Scott Peacock — co-author and longtime friend to a matriarch of traditional southern cuisine — if his biscuits were any good.

Once I finally realized where I recognized Peacock — "Scott?" called a store employee when his sandwich was ready — I began my quest for The Gift of Southern Cooking. (For special books, like this one, I prefer to go on a treasure hunt to local shops instead of jumping the gun and ordering online.) Sandy's Books & Bakery was the first stop on my docket. Though I left without the book, I walked out the door fully satiated, having discovered the small menu of daily rotating goodies behind Sandy's front door. 
Sandy's Books & Bakery - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • Sandy's Books & Bakery
On that first trip, I nestled in a corner table between two book shelves — one labeled "Peace and Justice," the other "Cats." I tucked into a crusty grilled cheese dunked in homemade tomato soup. Then I browsed a section titled "Wild Edibles" with an espresso and a fat hermit cookie fragrant with clove and cinnamon.

Pastries at Sandy's usually fall within the $1.50 to $3 range, and a quiche, salad, soup or sandwiches rarely surpasses $10. In short: More often than not, I can take myself to breakfast or lunch at Sandy's for less than $12, with room to spare for a treat.

On my most recent visit, I sank into a plump armchair by a section labeled "Planes, Trains and Automobiles" and watched as falling snow blanketed two Adirondack chairs out front. I lingered over a steaming bowl of white bean soup with sausage, sun-dried tomatoes and fresh rosemary ($5.95), taking my time on the crusty wedges of homemade bread and local butter served alongside.

With my remaining budget, I left with a to-go box for later: a supremely boozy rum ball rolled in almonds ($2) and one Black-and-Gold ($2), a dark cocoa cookie boosted by the bite of black pepper.
Rum ball, hermit and Black-and-Gold from Sandy's Books & Bakery - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • Rum ball, hermit and Black-and-Gold from Sandy's Books & Bakery

As I left, I inhaled the deep aroma of the fresh pot of coffee burbling behind the counter. I stowed my to-go box, donned my gloves and suddenly remembered a quote from Edna Lewis:  "The smell of coffee cooking was a reason for growing up ... nothing haunted the nostrils all the way out to the barn as did the aroma of boiling coffee."

I reminded myself to return soon for a cup.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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Friday, February 3, 2017

The Simmering Bone Sells the Nourishing Power of Broth

Posted By on Fri, Feb 3, 2017 at 7:00 AM

Beef broth from the Simmering Bone - COURTESY OF THE SIMMERING BONE
  • Courtesy of the Simmering Bone
  • Beef broth from the Simmering Bone
After Rachel Collier had her first child, she researched best practices for introducing solid foods to little ones. In the process, bone broth — which is made by simmering bones slowly over a long period of time to extract as many nutrients as possible — came up again and again. Now, it's not only a part of her family's daily diet, it's also the basis for her business, the Simmering Bone. "It's pretty amazing stuff," she explains.

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Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Eat this Week, February 1 to February 7, 2017: Wine Geeks Go Greek

Posted By on Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 3:00 PM

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For its February wine dinner, Stowe's Cork Wine Bar & Market journeys through rocky Grecian hills for a closer look at small-production Anatolian wines, paired with four courses from head chef Dave Davey. Start with sardines and mussels and a crisp, citrusy white from Santorini. Then dive into grilled mezze snacks such as pork souvlaki, springy halloumi cheese and smoke-kissed vegetables, served with dips, spreads and breads. A dark and aromatic Xinomavro from Macedonia plays up the earth tones in an entrée of lamb moussaka, while Kir-Yianni's sparkling pink Akakies complements a honey-tinged sweet treat to finish.

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