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Monday, November 28, 2016

Bijou Fine Chocolate Brings Swiss Tradition to Shelburne

Posted By on Mon, Nov 28, 2016 at 5:32 PM

Kevin Toohey with a tray of truffles at Bijou Fine Chocolate - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • Kevin Toohey with a tray of truffles at Bijou Fine Chocolate
“Chocolate is more akin to glass than food,” says Kevin Toohey, master chocolatier and cofounder of Bijou Fine Chocolate in Shelburne. He pulls a sheet tray of truffles from a standing rack: squares of dark chocolate blanketing handmade almond marzipan. The chocolate is sleek and glossy. There's an unmistakable, deep-cocoa fragrance. It looks far more appetizing than glass.

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Saturday, November 26, 2016

Vin Bar & Shop Closes Its Doors

Posted By on Sat, Nov 26, 2016 at 9:51 PM

VIN BAR & SHOP
  • Vin Bar & Shop
Burlington’s Vin Bar & Shop quietly closed its doors last week. After more than three years of service, owners Kevin and Kathi Cleary —  proprietors of the late, great L’Amante — will no longer be pouring glasses, sampling bottles or pairing meat and cheese plates at their spot on College Street.

“Running a bar is much different than running a restaurant in Burlington,” wrote Kevin Cleary in an email. “I think some people expected [another] L’Amante [from Vin], and that could not happen, because we didn’t have the kitchen and we never planned on putting one in.”

Common customer feedback relayed the opinion that people wanted more food with their sips, he wrote.

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Dining on a Dime: Boustan

Posted By on Sat, Nov 26, 2016 at 7:30 AM

Shawarma combo platter at Boustan - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Shawarma combo platter at Boustan
At 3 a.m. on Sunday, a long line snakes into the Saint Catherine Street location of  Boustan, a Lebanese fast-food mini-chain with five restaurants in Montréal.

Hungry dancers and club hoppers wait, examining the menu or watching sports on a wall-hung TV, until they can reach the counter and place an order. Some grab bottles and cans from the cooler: soda, aloe juice or a strawberry drink dotted with basil seeds.

On the food menu are pita sandwiches, couscous dishes and kebabs, but the most exciting offering is the chicken and beef shawarma platter ($10.75 CAD, or $7.95 U.S., as of November 25). When the guy who whips around putting together takeout orders as he talks asks if you'd like yours "all dressed up," say oui.

If you do, you'll receive a pile of spiced rice, roasted potatoes, coleslaw, hummus, red onions, some sort of reddish pickled vegetable (radish? turnip?), and a generous scoop of aioli. In case you don't have enough starch already, he'll toss a pita on top for good measure. Only a competitive eater or a lumberjack would consider this a single meal.

Shawarma is made from meats that are spiced and spit-roasted. Here, both the chicken and beef are flavorful and moist. Alternating through the side dishes, or combining them, provides a wide variety of tastes and textures, including some serious crunch from the slaw, pickles and onions. Especially late at night, it's perfectly satisfying.

When I travel, I rarely visit the same restaurant twice. But this iteration of Restaurant Boustan, located just a couple doors down from Espace des Arts — which hosts many of the city's Latin and African dance events — calls me back time and time again.

Why? The winning combination of late-night hours (the spot is open until 4 a.m.), flavorful food and value — about $4 per meal in American currency, or $6 if I wash my shawarma down with a sweet, soothing, strawberry-basil-seed drink.

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Tuesday, November 22, 2016

Farmers Market Kitchen: Breakfast Ramen Hack

Posted By on Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 3:08 PM

Breakfast ramen with kimchi and egg - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Breakfast ramen with kimchi and egg
I've said it before and I'll say it again: I'm useless without breakfast. And for the past few months, I've been on a breakfast ramen kick. On work mornings, I awaken to noodles, tinged orange with runny egg yolk and sesame-scented chile-miso broth. A kimchi kick punctuates each slurp.

I usually use packaged dry ramen because I can get it anywhere and it costs a quarter. But when I can, I'll upgrade to fresh ramen from Vermont Fresh Pasta (check the fresh pasta section at your co-op or supermarket).  And — especially for folks who don't ferment their own kimchi — most of the other ingredients are readily available from local purveyors.

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Friday, November 18, 2016

Dining on a Dime: Hattie's Kitchen

Posted By on Fri, Nov 18, 2016 at 9:09 AM

Corned beef Reuben at Hattie's Kitchen - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Corned beef Reuben at Hattie's Kitchen
In  South Strafford, Hattie's Kitchen opened this past May, replacing Café 232, which had occupied the white clapboard building at 232 Route 132 since 2013.

Inside the restaurant's dining room, a breakfast of two eggs, bacon and buttered toast will set you back $6.35. At lunch, a cheeseburger with crisp, hand-cut fries costs $7. And for dinner — served Thursdays, Fridays and occasional Saturdays — a meal of pot roast, baked ham or eggplant Parmesan runs around $10.

The affordable price point is no accident, says co-owner/cook Pat Hackett, who closed her Quechee sweet spot, Vermont Homestyle Bakery, to open the café. "I think [restaurants at this location] have always kind of struggled," she says, noting that Strafford's 1,100 or so full-time residents can't sustain a restaurant on their own. When Hackett moved in, she says, many locals told her that sticker shock prevented them from frequenting earlier restaurants in the space.

So, the cook has made a point to get the word out via local listservs and community boards, hoping to pull business from nearby Norwich, Thetford, Sharon and South Royalton. And she builds value into every plate, making each item from scratch using as many local ingredients as her budget allows (occasional farm-to-table dinners embrace a more heavy-duty locavore approach).

Last week, a lunchtime Reuben — $7.95, or $10.45 if you replace chips with just-cut, golden yellow fries — was easily two meals. Sauerkraut gave lift to hefty folds of corned beef. Between slices of homemade rye, griddled to a buttery crunch, these melded seamlessly with a skim of Thousand Island dressing and gooey Swiss.

Hackett makes white and multigrain breads, too — often some 20 loaves daily — along with sweets such as German chocolate cake, seasonal fruit pies, sticky buns and muffins. In the morning, many locals swing through for coffee (brewed strong with beans from White River Junction's Mountain Grove Coffee) and a pastry en route to work.

With coffee priced at about $2 and a fresh, saucer-sized cinnamon roll for $3, it's hard to imagine a sweeter workday breakfast.

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Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Lincoln Peak Vineyard's Take on the Nouveau Wine Tradition

Posted By on Tue, Nov 15, 2016 at 7:00 AM

Lincoln Peak Marquette Nouveau - LINCOLN PEAK VINEYARD
  • Lincoln Peak Vineyard
  • Lincoln Peak Marquette Nouveau
Saturday, November 19, marks the release of Lincoln Peak Vineyard’s Marquette Nouveau — a dry, young and supremely fresh wine. Fittingly, says vineyard owner Chris Granstrom, it “goes great with a turkey dinner.”

“Nouveau wine is bottled the same year the grapes are harvested,” Granstrom continues. “Using an unusual fermentation technique called carbonic maceration, whole grape clusters are sealed in a tank, which is filled with carbon dioxide — no crushing, no yeast.”

The result is a low-acid, zesty wine with ripe-fruit flavor. The nouveau wine tradition is made famous by the Beaujolais region of France, which annually releases a crush of young Gamay reds, "Beaujolais Nouveau," in the third week of November. This year, Lincoln Peak brings the centuries-old custom to the Green Mountains.

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Saturday, November 12, 2016

Drink Up: Scout & Company in Winooski

Posted By on Sat, Nov 12, 2016 at 8:30 AM

Cappuccino at Scout & Co. in Winooski - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Cappuccino at Scout & Co. in Winooski
When you order the smoked-maple latte at Scout & Co., the barista torches a marshmallow in your cup. The nearby coffee begins to simmer as the flame turns the confection brown and bubbly. It's at once a decadent treat and a bit of performance art.

Most days, the sweetness of that drink is too much for me and I stick with a more traditional cappuccino, laced with just enough of that smoked-maple syrup to emulate a whiff of wood fires in the wintertime. A ham and cheese croissant from the Williston Coffee Shop, or one of Miss Weinerz sourdough doughnuts, makes it almost a meal.

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Thursday, November 10, 2016

In Hancock, a Country Store Is Revived

Posted By on Thu, Nov 10, 2016 at 3:23 PM

Hubbard's Country Store in Hancock - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • Hubbard's Country Store in Hancock
Sara and Jon Deering purchased Hubbard's Country Store in January 2013. The small building off Route 125 in Hancock had sat deserted, next to a one-pump gas station, since it was vacated by previous owners a couple of years earlier.

Tropical Storm Irene had left her mark. The house needed to be jacked up and leveled. The basement needed gutting, the infrastructure stabilizing. The pipes, which sat vacant for too long, had burst in the interior walls, leaving behind even more damage.

“I had a vision of the store becoming a better version of itself,” says Sara Deering. “My husband [Jon] and I live here in Hancock. We’re a small community, and there’s a need for a general store locally.”

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Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Food and Chaucer at the Isole Dinner Club

Posted By on Wed, Nov 9, 2016 at 3:51 PM

Legit stone soup: fish broth heated by a hot rock - DANA HEFFERN
  • Dana Heffern
  • Legit stone soup: fish broth heated by a hot rock
On Sunday, October 2, at the Groennfell Meadery in Colchester, a horde of people — some dressed in cloaks — shouted cheers with raised tumblers of mead, read aloud passages from Beowulf in Old English, and supped on Scandinavian cheeses, fish soup heated with rocks, and roasted bear garnished with honeycomb.

That evening, the tables were decorated with swords, animal bones and flickering candles, and the mead hall's lights were dimmed. Squinting a bit to blur out the modern brewing equipment made it easy to believe the cheerful crowd consisted of warring Geats, and that Grendel might show up at any moment to spoil our good cheer.

The dinner — the first in a series celebrating the intersection of food and literature — was put on by Isole Dinner Club, the brainchild of chef-anthropologist Richard Witting.  The second will take place on Sunday, November 20, and will celebrate Chaucer's Canterbury Tales and an ancient volume called The Forme of Cury, which was the first cookbook written in English.

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Tuesday, November 8, 2016

Farmers Market Kitchen: Ham Hock-Legume Soup

Posted By on Tue, Nov 8, 2016 at 3:48 PM

Ham hock-navy bean soup - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Ham hock-navy bean soup
At many small farms and backyard pig pens, November is hog-killing season. My husband and I get our pork from a friend; a group of us gets together each fall to slaughter, butcher and package animals. Before the meat comes home, we clear out our freezers to make way for the new stuff. And that generally means feasting on the remnants of last year's pig. This time, we had a ham to dispense with.

I love a good ham. But perhaps more than the ham itself, I love using its leftovers in dishes like pasta with tomatoes, breakfast tostadas with crumbled blue cheese, or in a brunch skillet with runny eggs and potatoes.

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