In Chittenden County, food truck season really begins and ends with ArtsRiot's Friday night Truck Stops.Since convening its first mobile meet-up on Pine Street in 2013, ArtsRiot has expanded the series to Montpelier and Winooski. This summer, the Onion City has hosted trucks including Dolce VT, Taco Gordo, Southern Smoke and MaMa Dogs Catering on Saturdays since mid-July. But — just as October summons leaves to the ground — this week marks the end of this tasty summertime squeeze. Catch 2016's final truck-rally kicks at ArtsRiot in Burlington this Friday, October 14, and in Winooski, the following night.
Most mornings, my breakfast involves one egg and a huge pile of sautéed greens, plus a handful of fresh salad greens. Sometimes I'll add a bit of cured pork product — I'll take any excuse to eat sausage, bacon or ham — and tortilla or grilled bread.
Food show host Alton Brown will tell you that the mock eel at A Single Pebble in Burlington is one of the best things he’s ever eaten with a pair of chopsticks. The dish has gained some cult culinary status both in and beyond Vermont, and why not?
Serpentine strips of shiitake mushrooms are fried beyond recognition and shellacked with ginger-scallion soy sauce that’s both addictively salty and cloyingly sweet. It’s fat, sugar and salinity, and it’s good with a beer. Yet it’s not the best thing on the menu. And at $11 per plate, the dish is a bit steep.
I ordered the mock eel to see what all the fuss was about, but the deep-fried strands of shiitake were forgotten when the cha shao buns landed at the table.
At $8, the two softball-size steamed wheat buns are an ethereal contradiction in flavor and texture. The cushiony dough is delicate but substantial, its insides bloated with minced onions, pork and coarsely chopped mushrooms and plush with savory honey sauce. An acidic bite of raw scallions fringes the top, and two shallow dishes of dipping sauces — one salty-sweet peanut, the other a spiced, starchy hoisin — flank the plate for an added punch of flavor.
The buns come with a pair of tongs and a knife for slicing, but I couldn’t think of splitting. Instead, I went in a less demure direction and lifted a warm, steamed wheat bun in one hand, finishing my first cha shao bun in five hefty bites.
If there’s a bit more bulk in your wallet, you can also go for chef Chiuho Duval’s tasting menu, which changes daily. It features a parade of courses chosen on whim by the kitchen. But for a hearty meal on a budget, two cha shao buns certainly fit the bill.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.
I ordered beets from Elmer Farm in Middlebury and opened up a box of jewels. Spiraled orbs of Chioggia beets, garnet-hued red beets and golden beets so vivid they might have swallowed our summer sun whole.
I didn’t want to steam or roast these gems, fearing they would lose their color. Instead, I took inspiration from a dish I worked one night at Zuni Café in San Francisco. That evening, one of the chefs, Joe, created a gorgeous spread of slivered beets layered with circles of grapefruit and navel orange, the plate garnished with nothing more than a pinch of flaked salt and a thin float of Prosecco. It was striking. Those colors had come straight from the ground — no dyes or droplets, just a hit of red, orange and gold on a white café plate.
For a town of 902 people, Worcester has some big things going for it. Located on Route 12 between Montpelier and Morrisville, the burg is famous for its July 4 celebration — which features exceptional fireworks — and it boasts a robust community lunch. Worcester is home to Kettlesong Farm and Good Heart Farmstead (where I reside), among other agricultural operations. And, it's got a gas station that offers grocery items from India.
Post Office Café
Betsy Gladding and Leslie Sabo
In addition, Worcester is where you'll find the Post Office Café, owned by Betsy Gladding and Leslie Sabo. There, you can mix and match all kinds of inexpensive meals to suit the mood of the day.
For instance, you could have Vermont Artisan tea, a piece of potato and garlic-scape quiche, and a gooey maple bun. Or, you could get a sausage, egg and cheese breakfast sandwich and a cappuccino. Or, if you're in a hurry, you can grab a container of soup (with housemade stock) and a salad such as fire-roasted gazpacho or sesame noodles from the cooler. Any of these combinations will run you less than $12.
But my favorite meal on a "dime" is the sandwich, made on homemade baguette or a plain or seeded roll. For protein, eaters can choose hummus or local turkey, ham or cheddar. You can also mix-and-match to your heart's desire. I get mine with both meats and cheese, plus lettuce, onions, housemade pickles, Sriracha mayo, mustard and sprinkles of salt and pepper. It's hard to beat at $7.50.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.
Ever meet a dilly bean you didn't love? Well, you can pickle peas, too. One of my girlfriends made lactofermented snap-pea "pea-kles" last summer, and they're still flavorful, crispy and sour a full year later.
So, with a few pounds of extra sugarsnaps on my hands, I threw some into jars with fresh onions from Cedar Circle Farm, a little wild chamomile (also called pineapple weed, this grows all over my driveway, and in compacted soils everywhere) then covered them in salty maple brine.
Lactopickling is super simple — my pea-kle ordeal took about 30 minutes including boiling and cooling the brine — but it's critical to follow a few important rules.
From Sara Moulton's Home Cooking 101: How to Make Everything Taste Better
You might remember chef Sara Moulton as one of the Food Network’s original celebrities during its first decade of television. Maybe you recognize her from her current show, "Sara's Weeknight Meals," which is set to air its sixth season in January 2017. Or perhaps you own one of her best-selling cookbooks. Her latest, Sara Moulton’s Home Cooking 101: How to Make Everything Taste Better is an opus of home cooking, relevant to those with and without experience in the restaurant world.
With more than 30 years of culinary experience, Moulton’s other distinctions include being a protégé of Julia Child, executive chef of Gourmet Magazine, cofounder of the New York Women’s Culinary Alliance, and a member of the James Beard Foundation’s Who’s Who of Food and Beverage.
On July 9, I had the privilege of meeting the acclaimed chef at the 2016 Grafton Food Festival. Moulton and I settled into two armchairs at the Grafton Inn to talk about Child, culinary media and Vermont's influence on the food world.
In the upper Connecticut River Valley, everyone goes to Whippi Dip. Located in Fairlee village, the longtime snack bar is favored by groups from nearby summer camps, where counselors use it as a bribe (Be good campers, and maybe we'll go to Whippi Dip later). Locals use it for a quick, cheap lunch or dinner (almost everything is priced $3 to $10) or evening ice cream.
And, while the service varies from speedy to deathly slow, the food is fresh, thoughtfully crafted and, by snack-bar standards, relatively healthy. Sure, there are the usual burgers — made with local beef, turkey or black beans — fried seafood and ice cream. But Whippi Dip's menu also offers tacos ( pork, beef, fish or veggie), breakfast burritos, salads (Mexican, Asian or garden) and sandwiches stuffed with house-smoked brisket or pulled pork.
Last night, I went for a puffy croissant from the specials board. It cradled crisp lettuce and cool cubed chicken breast tossed with red grapes (these added a sweet pop of moisture), sage and just enough mayo to marry the flavors but not make things heavy.
That rang in at $7.62 — including a $2 up-charge to swap crispy sweet-potato fries for chips. That felt like a decent deal since eating just half of it filled me up. But, since the evening was unbearably hot and sticky, I finished with a creamsicle float. That's a serious scoop of Kingdom Creamery vanilla ice cream doused in Maine Root mandarin orange soda, for $2.98. I left happy, cool and stuffed.
And by morning, I already craved another ice-cream soda.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.
Cave-aged clothbound cheddar at the 2016 Grafton Food Festival
“I don’t mind mist, but please don’t pour,” said Angela Comstock, innkeeper at the Grafton Inn, as she watched slate-colored clouds shift across the skyline. It was Saturday, July 9, and the inn was hosting its fourth annual Grafton Food Festival. For an hour or two, the weather seemed to heed her request. Then the sky cracked open, raining buckets.
For another all-day food festival, a washout could have been a disaster. But, luckily, the inn's field was sheltered by an enormous tent, making a cozy enclave for festival-goers and 25 vendors hanging out within its barriers. Also luckily, the Grafton Inn was filled with stalwart folks who didn’t mind a little water.
The Barr Hill Gin Gimlet at American Flatbread, Middlebury Hearth
I live exactly 0.3 miles from American Flatbread in Middlebury. It's a five-minute stroll past Frog Hollow Alley to the creaky bridge over Otter Creek, a pathway lit by gas lamps after dark. I often find myself retreating to Flatbread's shaded back patio to share a bottle of cider, or bellied up to the wraparound wooden bar for a couple of drafts and a "Pepperoni and Peppers" to split.
I usually go to the beer list, but Middlebury Hearth's recently released summer cocktail menu has swayed my habits. Created specifically for the location by Steve Boyce, a former bartender and current Flatbread co-owner, the list of carefully crafted drinks extends the restaurant's ethos for local, sustainable, and made-in-house fare.
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