Bite Club | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

Please support our work!

Donate  Advertise

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Stonecutter Spirits Hosts a Whiskey-Release Party

Posted By on Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 11:06 AM

Sas Stewart making a cocktail - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Sas Stewart making a cocktail
The Stonecutter Spirits headquarters in Middlebury is an impressive place: cool and modern, with plenty of poured concrete and brushed metal.  But in the aging room, the casks and the hush more resemble a medieval monastery. 

I was there last Friday for a whiskey-release party. Stonecutter has been experimenting with blending booze-making techniques from different traditions, and its Heritage Cask Whiskey is the most recent result.

As co-owner Sas Stewart put it, the spirit is distilled like a bourbon, aged like an Irish whiskey, and finished in wine barrels like a Scotch.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , ,

Sunday, June 26, 2016

Dining on a Dime: Anything at Wilaiwan's Kitchen

Posted By on Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 4:18 PM

Tom Yum - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Tom Yum
When I'm under the weather, I go to Wilaiwan's Kitchen in Montpelier. The warmth and spice of the Thai dishes invariably clear my head, and I always leave feeling better than when I arrived.

When I'm sad, I go to Wilaiwan's, and I'm cheered by the interplay of flavors in my bowl of rice noodles in broth, or a salad with pungent lime and fish sauce dressing.

I also go to Wilaiwan's when the sun is shining, and I can take my bowl to a nearby bench on State Street and watch politicians go by on their way to or from the golden-domed Capitol.

Truth is, I go to Wilaiwan's Kitchen every chance I get. This is possible in part because every dish is just $9.75, tax included. It's only $2 more to add a fresh rice-paper roll, with its sweet and tangy dipping sauce. 
Gwit Diow - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Gwit Diow
The Wilaiwan's lunch-only menu is tiny — it includes just three items at a time and runs Monday through Friday. Because it rotates, what you eat one week is never the same as what you sampled the previous week, or the week before that. But that rotation also means your favorite dishes will come back around before long.

What never changes is that the food at Wilaiwan's is incredibly delicious. Every single thing. Every single time. Whether it's khao soy (chicken curry with coconut milk and pickled mustard greens) or lab moo (smoked pork with herbs, red onion and toasted rice, dressed with lime juice and served with cucumber).  

On occasion, one of the offerings is made with local meat. If you tell 'em it matters to you, perhaps that number will increase, in time. While that might make the eats a bit less cheap, I, for one, would be happy to pay a little more. Even at the cost of giving up my spring roll. 

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Fat Roasted Asparagus With Poached Eggs and Toasted Breadcrumbs

Posted By on Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 1:42 PM

Asparagus with poached eggs and breadcrumbs - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • Asparagus with poached eggs and breadcrumbs
I keep a one-gallon bag of homemade breadcrumbs tucked in the freezer. The bag grows fatter week by week with odd ends of olive loaves, stale bagels, nubs of potato bread and too-old slices of homemade rye. The bread scraps will get slicked with olive oil and toasted into croutons; those that remain will be pulsed in a blender and zipped into the freezer bag. There they remain, until meatballs need making or a pile of spaghetti with herbs and cream begs for an extra hit of texture.

Currently, I have a favorite way to use those breadcrumbs waiting in my freezer. Determined to celebrate asparagus season as long as possible, I blanketed a platter of fat, roasted spears with toasted breadcrumbs and a few poached eggs. The runny orange yolks — courtesy of hens Alice, Riggs, Garfield, Houdini and George Costanza (yup, I know they're female) — mingle with the tender-sweet stalks and golden breadcrumbs for a dish that meets all go-to notes of color, flavor and texture. Here’s the recipe.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Tuesday, June 21, 2016

Farmers Market Kitchen: Tom Cat, Thyme and Tonic

Posted By on Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:19 PM

Tom Cat, Thyme and Tonic - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Tom Cat, Thyme and Tonic
If there's one thing my kitchen garden does really well, it's grow herbs. Like clockwork, thyme blooms around the summer solstice, sending up charming little columns of flowers that seem to last for weeks. To eat, these blooms are somewhat milder than the leaves, tender and sweet, with light tannic notes (thyme is, after all, a woody herb) and a hint of licorice. 

In April, Caledonia Spirits released a limited run of its Barr Hill Reserve  Tom Cat gin, which was aged in Vermont white oak barrels made by a cooper outside of Plattsburgh. On my way through Hardwick earlier this month, I stopped at the distillery and snapped up a bottle. It's a sipping gin — golden in color, smooth and honey-sweet with herbal, woody and nut-brown flavors that you can unpack for hours.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Thursday, June 16, 2016

Drink Up: Middlebury Chocolates' Made-to-Order Shake

Posted By on Thu, Jun 16, 2016 at 12:27 PM

Middlebury Chocolates - OLIVER PARINI
  • Oliver Parini
  • Middlebury Chocolates
I’ve hit my fair share of creemee stands. Vermont Cookie Love on Route 7 sees me regularly for a cappuccino creemee. At Goodies Snack Bar, I count the days until the multitiered maple creemee is back in rotation. Sama's Cafe is right around the corner from my house, so it's all too easy to appear at its walk-up window for a chocolate-vanilla twist.

But, as much as I love a creemee in a wafer cone, sometimes I want to savor a different summer symbol: the milkshake.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Dining on a Dime: Mule Bar's $8 Cheeseburger-and-Fries

Posted By on Tue, Jun 14, 2016 at 12:20 PM

Mule Bar's $8 cheeseburger - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Mule Bar's $8 cheeseburger
Many people who eat out have come to accept  the $15-plus burger-and-fries as inevitable fact. After all, beef is pricey — often $8 per pound, or more if it's local, organic or grassfed. So is the crisp Vermont lettuce, tomato slice and the labor that made the bun, pickle and condiments in-house.

But most diners who prioritize quality over pennies are willing to pay the asking price when a burger craving hits, and restaurants add value by serving hulking third- or half-pound patties with a veritable mountain of potatoes. Usually, I'll order a burger knowing I'll eat half of it and save the rest for later.

Enter Mule Bar's $8 cheeseburger.

In addition to several larger, pricier patties, chefs Collin Parliman and Thom Corrado offer a four-ounce option (that's a quarter-pound). It's juicy  New England beef, lightly seasoned and cooked to a cool, pink medium-rare (or whatever temp you request) in the middle. A melty layer of Cabot cheddar clings to the puckish form; its dairy-fat grease mixes with the meat juices and seeps into the brioche, which is substantial enough to soak it all in without falling apart.

Still need more fat? Ask for a bit of Mule's silken housemade mayo. You'll want to dip your rosemary-tinged  skinny fries in it, anyway. 

Another thing: A four-ounce burger cooks fast! And with Mule Bar's new hours — open daily at 11:30 a.m. as of last week — this meal is an easy fix for a workday lunch break.

For comparison's sake, a McDonald's quarter-pounder-with-cheese meal will set you back $5.79 — just $2.21 less. And there's no beer on draft.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Tasting Menus Planned for Pop-Up Restaurant Elm in Montpelier

Posted By on Tue, Jun 14, 2016 at 10:31 AM

Rye crisp with perch at Elm - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Rye crisp with perch at Elm
During the final year that I owned my Montpelier restaurant, Salt, I dispensed with regular menus. Instead, each night I prepared a tasting menu — a parade of small bites, designed to showcase the best of whatever was in season. While tasting menus allow chefs to be playful in the kitchen, which is a professional boon, I chose the format for several other reasons, too. For one thing, after I switched, I wasted so much less food.

Think about it: Customers expect restaurants never to run out of the dishes they want, but the only way to have enough scallops for everyone who might order them is to have more scallops than people are going to eat. And when you have one of those nights when nobody orders scallops? You make scallop chowder the next day. And all of the extra scallop chowder left at the end of that night? Trash. Compost. Bye-bye.

So, yeah, tasting menus. You only cook what you’re planning to serve. And you only order what you’re going to cook. What a concept! Tasting menus have been my favorite way to dine since long before I understood the behind-the-scenes reasons for their awesomeness. So, I was excited to receive an invitation to a tasting dinner at a pop-up restaurant called Elm, located in Philamena’s at 41 Elm Street in Montpelier.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , ,

Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Salsa Verde With Preserved Lemon

Posted By on Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 4:09 PM

Preserved Lemons - H.B WILCOX PHOTOGRAPHY / HBROOKEPHOTO.COM
  • H.B Wilcox Photography / hbrookephoto.com
  • Preserved Lemons
It seemed to happen overnight: After a couple days steeped in heat and humidity, the rain clouds rolled in with an evening thunderstorm. My garden drank it up. The raised bed of herbs in the backyard seemed to bolt within 24 hours. Parsley. Chives. Big, downy leaves of mint.

I remembered the lemons I preserved last winter: scored, salted, packed in a mason jar and eventually forgotten in the back of my refrigerator — until the season's first herbs reminded me of a favorite recipe: Salsa verde with preserved lemons.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Tuesday, June 7, 2016

Farmers Market Kitchen: Radish Greens Frittata

Posted By on Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 2:17 PM

Radish greens! - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Radish greens!
Radishes are a book-end vegetable, one of the first freshies of spring, and one of the last veggies standing come fall.  I love the crunchy little roots served fresh or in salad, and they're fab on the grill or sautéed. And don't get me started on the greens, which make a fine pesto base or spinach substitute. 

I planted some in mid-April (remember how it snowed  just a few weeks ago?), and expected to harvest them this week and next. But following several 80-degree days and Sunday's rain, they bolted yesterday afternoon. I saved a few, but mostly I got a sink full of greens, since the plants had converted their bulbous roots into flower stalks in a single day.

This morning, I took a bunch of those greens and cooked them into a fluffy, frothy frittata with fresh herbs,  asparagus from 4 Corners Farm and a handful of cow's milk "feta" from Neighborly Farms, over in Randolph. 

And life was grand...

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Thursday, June 2, 2016

Chef, Farmer, Eater: More Talk With Food Writer Ruth Reichl

Posted By on Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 8:00 PM

Ruth Reichl co-teaching at Sterling College - COURTESY OF BEANA BERN
  • Courtesy of Beana Bern
  • Ruth Reichl co-teaching at Sterling College

This week’s issue of Seven Days features an interview with renowned food writer Ruth Reichl. Last week, I met Reichl at Sterling College in Craftsbury Common, where she spent three days co-teaching a summer course called “Food Writing From the Farm” at the college’s School of the New American Farmstead.

There wasn’t enough space to run the entire interview in print. Here are extended questions and answers from our front-porch conversation on the Sterling College campus:

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Keep up with us Seven Days a week!

Sign up for our fun and informative
newsletters:

All content © 2025 Da Capo Publishing, Inc. 255 So. Champlain St. Ste. 5, Burlington, VT 05401

Advertising Policy  |  Privacy Policy  |  Contact Us  |  About Us  |  Help
Powered By Foundation