With the exception of sandwiches and a couple of entrées, most main courses at the Tavern at the Essex Resort & Spa cost more than $20. But during Vermont Restaurant Week, that's the price of the Tavern's entire three-course prix-fixe dinner. Next door at more upscale Junction, the three-course menu that usually rings up at $50 is just $30.
Since I'd reviewed Junction a few months ago, I was more interested to see what was new at the Tavern. I began with what could most accurately be called a Tex-Mex bouchée à la reine. Moist smoked chicken and black beans filled a vol-au-vent made of cornmeal. Swishes of chipotle vinaigrette made the crunchy round of dough taste a bit like vadai — Indian savory doughnuts. A handful of queso on top was a bit excessive, but microgreens on the side added crunch and color, even if they were dressed only in olive oil.
I'm lucky enough to eat my way across Vermont for a living. When Vermont Restaurant Week comes, I'm pickier than most when it comes to choosing a menu. Ultimately, I look for a meal that I won't be able to get any other time. My first was exactly that: a three-course Lebanese prix-fixe served in a humble Colchester pizzeria.
Tartlets; quichettes; call them what you like, but please don't eat them all!
I'll admit it: this recipe seems a bit Pinterest-ready/Martha Stewart. But with Vermont Creamery chèvre tucked into cups of local sausage, nestled into fresh organic spinach from Berlin's Dog River Farm and then smothered with scrambled eggs from yonder farm stand, it's a super winner. Making it takes a little doing — there are a few steps — but the result is adorable and well worth the effort.
Second runner-up Erica Anderson (New Moon Café, Burlington), winner Nicole Maddox (Waterworks Food + Drink, Winooski), first runner-up Juanita Galloway & Anne Marcoe (Good Comida, Shelburne)
Good news first: It's the first day of Vermont Restaurant Week! The event kicks off today and runs until Sunday, May 3. Last night, a sold-out crowd of 400 attendees and a panel of expert judges selected the event's Signature Sweet.
Now the bad news: The fourth Sweet Start Smackdown was the final one. Next year, Seven Days will still host a culinary competition, but with a new theme.
For the last Sweet Start, the Restaurant Week team invited back five all-star contestants who placed at least in the top three in a previous year. The other five challengers were new to the competition. Newbie My Little Cupcake replaced all-star Little Sweets at Hen of the Wood just two days before the competition, so new contestants ended up outnumbering all-star teams by one.
It's been a busy few months here at the Seven Days food desk. In addition to writing our regular weekly features and food news, senior food writer Alice Levitt and I filed updates on more than 1,000 Vermont restaurants as we prepared our annual 7Nights dining guide for print. And, in tandem with our marketing and sales teams, we helped organize the sixth annual Vermont Restaurant Week — coordinating a record 115 menus with as many chefs — and put together a half dozen crave-worthy events.
With 7Nights hitting newsstands later today and Restaurant Week scheduled for takeoff this Friday, I, for one, am ready for a cocktail.
Embracing the spirit of the season (and a bit of shameless self-promotion), I'm making that cocktail a Vermont Mule.
For the unacquainted, that's a Vermonty spin on the classic Moscow Mule and it is the official signature cocktail of — wait for it — Vermont Restaurant Week!
Before the arrival of Tiny Thai, most Thai-craving Vermonters were weaned on the cuisine of Art and Claire Jilandharn. In recent years, their empire has stretched from Montpelier to Waterbury, Middlebury to Burlington. That Waterbury hub, Ocha Thai Restaurant, closed in 2013. Now it's back, on the Waterbury-Stowe Road next to Stash N' Stowe smoke shop.
There's no formality to the fluorescent-lit, 18-seat spot with its lavender walls and wooden parrots hung from the ceiling. Most customers on Sunday night were picking up take-out, but we took a seat to try a sampling of the new/old restaurant's menu.
Finally, some warmer weather, and all I want to eat is greens. At recent markets, farmers have been showing up with truckloads of greenhouse-fresh spring leaves. The Burlington Farmers Market is now on hiatus until May 9, but plenty of local roughage is available elsewhere — yesterday I left the co-op with a colorful bunch of mixed kale and a bag of gorgeous baby collards from Miskell's Premium Organics.
This morning, I mixed the collards into a bulgur salad with some leftover root vegetables — turnips and carrots from Jericho Settlers Farm, and beets from Pete's Greens — and a couple stray apples. If you're able to plan ahead, it's best to roast the veggies in the evening and assemble the salad the next day, as everything needs to be cool when you mix it together — kind of like tabbouleh.
Seasoned with olive oil, tarragon, lemon and miso, it's a healthy little dish that's best served cold or at room temp, and feels springy but substantial. It's also vegan and keeps well in the fridge for a few days, so it's great for sharing — perhaps at a potluck, barbecue or dinner party.
And, the recipe is easily modified: Gluten-intolerant? Use quinoa instead of bulgur. Nut allergy? Skip them.
Legend has it that the lost city of gold could be anywhere in the Americas. You just have to look for it. I discovered El Dorado deep in Jeffersonville, with the help of my GPS. It's inside the former Red Fox Alpine Lodge, a former skier's dorm, in turn repurposed from a historic church in the 1960s.
The quiet bar within still has the worn feel of après-ski ragers past. Locals might have already discovered the walls aren't gilt; we were the only diners for most of our Sunday evening meal. Still, the server seemed overwhelmed and apologetic at first.
6275 Avenue Somerled, Montréal, 514-487-9559
This weekend, I fell in deep lust. Don't worry, my other half knows. In fact, he shares my feelings. The object of our affection: a Slavic market in Montréal.
One of the most overused phrases in food journalism today is "the Eataly of" to refer to a comprehensive, food-hall-style experience of a particular cuisine. But Krazy Cmak, in Montréal's Notre-Dame-de-Grâce (NDG) neighborhood, bears no resemblance to Mario Batali's famed all-encompassing Italian market. It's on the small side, but I still found lots to love. In fact, I was able to cart home several items I hadn't seen since visiting Poland in 2011. So, yes, high points for the E. Wedel chocolates, rose-petal jam and linden tea.
But what really makes Krazy Cmak stand out is the prepared food.
In Korea, bibimbap is basically short-speak for "rice, protein, vegetable and egg." Often served with kimchi and other condiments, it's basically rice with a little bit of everything. Which makes it a great fridge-cleaning dish — or pre-vacation delicacy. I recently went on vacation, and I had to eat all the perishables left in my fridge, you see?
Simply cook whatever proteins and veggies left in your fridge, make some rice, throw on an egg and some kimchi on top and violà! You've got a serious, delicious, well-balanced meal that's good any time of day.
This weekend at the Burlington Farmers Market, I picked up a bundle of sprouted mustard greens from Jericho Settlers Farm. In my fridge, I found sausage, shiitakes from AH mushroom, half a wilted radicchio, fresh McKenzie sausage and, as always, eggs and kimchi. Everything came together in a perfect "something out of nothing" that used up the dredges in my crispers and started my vacation in style.
find, follow, fan us: