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Friday, February 28, 2014
Montréal Grazing at Montréal en Lumière
Posted
By Corin Hirsch
on Fri, Feb 28, 2014 at 4:33 PM
The program for Montreal en Lumiere, the two-week festival that has been unfolding up north, is disorienting to pick through. Except if you choose to focus only on the food events — and then it's only half as disorienting. Dozens of guest-chefs events and tasting menus abound, so many that I left the decision to the festival organizer who invited Seven Days staffers to come and experience the festival.
Since most of us are ridiculously busy at the moment, I was the only volunteer. Even then, I could only squeeze in a Tuesday night, when the ferris wheel on St. Catherine Street was dark, the Haitian food pavilion and Sphère Provigo de Marché were closed, and the schedule was relatively quiet.
Still, my evening was spectacular, even if I arrived four hours late on a delay-plagued Greyhound bus. I was invited to dine at Europea, the baroque 11-year-old restaurant where legendary chef Jérôme Ferrer pulls tiny culinary tricks on his diners. Yet many restaurants host guest chefs during the festival — and on the night I visited, French chef Jean-Paul Hartmann turned out four classic dishes that elegantly grounded Europea's parade of amuse-bouche and Willy Wonka-like desserts.
Pictured is Hartmann's "Appalachian deer" with seared foie gras in grand veneer sauce and tiny sea buckthorn berries offering sobering doses of sourness.
The meal was arresting, and raised questions I'll write about in an upcoming feature. In the meantime, Montréal en Lumière continues, culminating with Nuit Blanche on Saturday — an all-night party that unfolds all over the city (the Métro stays open all night, too). So if you have a passport, a clear schedule, and are not attending Burlington's Mardi Gras, get thyself to Montréal to check out one of the remaining food events — and mark your calendar for next year.
Since most of us are ridiculously busy at the moment, I was the only volunteer. Even then, I could only squeeze in a Tuesday night, when the ferris wheel on St. Catherine Street was dark, the Haitian food pavilion and Sphère Provigo de Marché were closed, and the schedule was relatively quiet.
Still, my evening was spectacular, even if I arrived four hours late on a delay-plagued Greyhound bus. I was invited to dine at Europea, the baroque 11-year-old restaurant where legendary chef Jérôme Ferrer pulls tiny culinary tricks on his diners. Yet many restaurants host guest chefs during the festival — and on the night I visited, French chef Jean-Paul Hartmann turned out four classic dishes that elegantly grounded Europea's parade of amuse-bouche and Willy Wonka-like desserts.
Pictured is Hartmann's "Appalachian deer" with seared foie gras in grand veneer sauce and tiny sea buckthorn berries offering sobering doses of sourness.
The meal was arresting, and raised questions I'll write about in an upcoming feature. In the meantime, Montréal en Lumière continues, culminating with Nuit Blanche on Saturday — an all-night party that unfolds all over the city (the Métro stays open all night, too). So if you have a passport, a clear schedule, and are not attending Burlington's Mardi Gras, get thyself to Montréal to check out one of the remaining food events — and mark your calendar for next year.
Thursday, February 27, 2014
Cider Midweek Swig: Vermont Ice Hard Cider
Posted
By Corin Hirsch
on Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 3:49 PM
This week: Vermont Ice Hard Cider from Boyden Valley Winery
Cost: $6.99 for a 22-ounce bottle at Mike's Store and Deli in Hartland
Strength: 6.9 percent abv
The pour: An exuberant head that quickly recedes, as well as fat bubbles and a pale straw hue. It gives off aromas of — well, apples, with maybe a whiff of apricot. (It doesn't smell complex.)
The taste: Full-flavored apples — such as Jonathans — with hints of pear, vanilla and almonds; some of those secondary flavors likely come from the oak-aged ice cider added before bottling. The entire swig, from start to finish, had an innocuous tart-sweet balance laced with bits of savory bubblegum, if such a thing existed. (Well, it does in the Chocolate Factory.)
Drink it with: On its own, or maybe with an apple crumble.
Backstory: This brand-new hard cider is from the Boyden family, who also turn out a range of grape, fruit and dessert wines. The winery used the pressed juices of Northern Spy, Empire and McIntosh apples from Castleton's Brown Family Orchards, then fermented the result in stainless steel. After carbonation, this was "finished" with some barrel-aged Vermont Ice Cider.
Verdict: The Boydens seem to have a knack for nailing the sweet spot of the palate. This is simple, smooth, refreshing and playful. It doesn't demand much.
Midweek Swig tackles a new liquid release (almost) each week. If you have suggestions for something to sample, send them to Corin at corin@sevendaysvt.com.
Cost: $6.99 for a 22-ounce bottle at Mike's Store and Deli in Hartland
Strength: 6.9 percent abv
The pour: An exuberant head that quickly recedes, as well as fat bubbles and a pale straw hue. It gives off aromas of — well, apples, with maybe a whiff of apricot. (It doesn't smell complex.)
The taste: Full-flavored apples — such as Jonathans — with hints of pear, vanilla and almonds; some of those secondary flavors likely come from the oak-aged ice cider added before bottling. The entire swig, from start to finish, had an innocuous tart-sweet balance laced with bits of savory bubblegum, if such a thing existed. (Well, it does in the Chocolate Factory.)
Drink it with: On its own, or maybe with an apple crumble.
Backstory: This brand-new hard cider is from the Boyden family, who also turn out a range of grape, fruit and dessert wines. The winery used the pressed juices of Northern Spy, Empire and McIntosh apples from Castleton's Brown Family Orchards, then fermented the result in stainless steel. After carbonation, this was "finished" with some barrel-aged Vermont Ice Cider.
Verdict: The Boydens seem to have a knack for nailing the sweet spot of the palate. This is simple, smooth, refreshing and playful. It doesn't demand much.
Midweek Swig tackles a new liquid release (almost) each week. If you have suggestions for something to sample, send them to Corin at corin@sevendaysvt.com.
Wednesday, February 26, 2014
Burlington Trader Joe's Will Open in South Burlington Store on May 16
Posted
By Corin Hirsch
on Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 4:11 PM
The Trader Joe's that has been taking shape on Dorset Street in South Burlington will open on Friday, May 16, according to a press release issued by the company early this morning.
The 12,800-square-foot store is a typical size for the chain, and will sport the same island motif as its other 400-plus stores. Patrons can probably also expect the same eclectic assortment of food and drink, which can range from dark-chocolate-covered edamame and cheap red wine to salad greens, almond milk, flowers and vitamins.
Trader Joe's was founded in California in 1958, and half of its stores are in that state. The South Burlington store was developed by Montpelier's Malone Properties, and underwent a lengthy permitting process before construction began last summer. No word yet on exactly how many "crew members" — aka staff — the chain will hire to run the store, but last year a local developer estimated about 60.
The store is a stone's throw away from Healthy Living Market and Café and one of a handful of new locations that will open this year — including stores in Boise, Boca Raton and Tampa.
South Burlington's Trader Joe's will be open daily from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Tuesday, February 25, 2014
Alice Eats Alice Eats: Red Hen Bakery & Café
Posted
By Alice Levitt
on Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 2:09 PM
961B Route 2, Montpelier, 223-5200
Readers often write to me with questions or thoughts on a Vermont restaurant. Recently, one person shared his feelings on Middlesex's Red Hen Bakery & Café. "Likely stop again? No!" he declared.
I told him I'd get down there to give my two cents as soon as possible. He may be disappointed to know that I disagree with his review. The cozy shop and café isn't fine dining. Two soups are available each day, along with a selection of sandwiches and a wide range of pastries.
The reader's unfavorable comparison to Burlington's former sandwich landmark, Carbur's, was unfair. While the latter was focused on big sandwiches with lots of options, Red Hen is all about quality local ingredients, prepared with restraint.
Counter service was exceptionally friendly. The staff not only answered my questions with aplomb but continued to take care of me well into my meal. The gentleman behind the counter insisted on bringing me and my dining partner a second soup spoon for our single bowl, even after I'd already fetched one from the counter myself. Hyper-helpful service, but not invasive.
Readers often write to me with questions or thoughts on a Vermont restaurant. Recently, one person shared his feelings on Middlesex's Red Hen Bakery & Café. "Likely stop again? No!" he declared.
I told him I'd get down there to give my two cents as soon as possible. He may be disappointed to know that I disagree with his review. The cozy shop and café isn't fine dining. Two soups are available each day, along with a selection of sandwiches and a wide range of pastries.
The reader's unfavorable comparison to Burlington's former sandwich landmark, Carbur's, was unfair. While the latter was focused on big sandwiches with lots of options, Red Hen is all about quality local ingredients, prepared with restraint.
Counter service was exceptionally friendly. The staff not only answered my questions with aplomb but continued to take care of me well into my meal. The gentleman behind the counter insisted on bringing me and my dining partner a second soup spoon for our single bowl, even after I'd already fetched one from the counter myself. Hyper-helpful service, but not invasive.
Monday, February 24, 2014
Grazing Grazing: Going Paleo (and Devouring Pumpkin Flatbread)
Posted
By Corin Hirsch
on Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 3:04 PM
Last Monday night, as I was driving home from work on a slushy, dark Interstate 89, this text popped through from my friend Helen: "pretty scrumptious locally raised pork chop here with your name on it! green chili sauce and spaghetti squash too."
Usually when I'm tired, I reach for carbs — pretzels or pasta or roasted potatoes — yet this starch-less dish sounded like it had descended from heaven. For the last few months, I had felt sorry for what Helen had been eating, not because she's a terrible cook (she's fabulous) but because she and her husband had "gone paleo." The first time I met them after their conversion, I finished off a plate of cubed cheese and bread while they nibbled on shrimp, and I secretly mourned that she and Dave might never again enjoy the pleasures of crusty bread, cheese or, better yet, cheese melted over bread.
The paleolithic diet has been around since the 1970s when gastroenterologist Dr. Walter Voegtlin began promoting the idea that the human body does best on the foods we ate as hunter-gatherers— basically, fish, grass-fed meat, eggs, nuts and fresh vegetables and fruit. On its surface, the paleo diet appears to be a modern take on the low-carb Atkins diet of the ’90s, but with an emphasis on pasture-raised meats and the total exclusion of grains and dairy. By cutting these things from our diet — which we never should have been eating in the first place, according to Dr. Voegtlin — we can slim down and keep all kinds of nasty diseases at bay.
Why paleo has gained traction of late, I'm not sure, but I know at least four people who have gone paleo/primal in the past year. Helen has lost 14 pounds since she began, and her husband has lost 10; my colleague, Alice Levitt, has lost 30 pounds since last summer, and says she doesn't miss eating grains at all (when she's not working, that is).
Usually when I'm tired, I reach for carbs — pretzels or pasta or roasted potatoes — yet this starch-less dish sounded like it had descended from heaven. For the last few months, I had felt sorry for what Helen had been eating, not because she's a terrible cook (she's fabulous) but because she and her husband had "gone paleo." The first time I met them after their conversion, I finished off a plate of cubed cheese and bread while they nibbled on shrimp, and I secretly mourned that she and Dave might never again enjoy the pleasures of crusty bread, cheese or, better yet, cheese melted over bread.
The paleolithic diet has been around since the 1970s when gastroenterologist Dr. Walter Voegtlin began promoting the idea that the human body does best on the foods we ate as hunter-gatherers— basically, fish, grass-fed meat, eggs, nuts and fresh vegetables and fruit. On its surface, the paleo diet appears to be a modern take on the low-carb Atkins diet of the ’90s, but with an emphasis on pasture-raised meats and the total exclusion of grains and dairy. By cutting these things from our diet — which we never should have been eating in the first place, according to Dr. Voegtlin — we can slim down and keep all kinds of nasty diseases at bay.
Why paleo has gained traction of late, I'm not sure, but I know at least four people who have gone paleo/primal in the past year. Helen has lost 14 pounds since she began, and her husband has lost 10; my colleague, Alice Levitt, has lost 30 pounds since last summer, and says she doesn't miss eating grains at all (when she's not working, that is).
Friday, February 21, 2014
Burlington Slovenia Invades Vermont — Buffet-Style
Posted
By Alice Levitt
on Fri, Feb 21, 2014 at 5:22 PM
I would be surprised if any other food critic writes more about the cuisine at area universities than I do, but I can't help it. The University of Vermont hosts two of my favorite annual food events. Judging the Battle of the Campus chefs each year, the skills of the dining hall staff impress me every time. Last year's visit from Swedish chef Göran Päandel Berggren opened my eyes to Sodexo's Global Chef program.
This year, Slovenian chef Božidar Marin topped Berggren's few offerings by taking over Harris-Millis Unlimited Dining last night. Books on Slovenia crowded a table near the front of the dining hall and native music filled the air. The deli station held two whole-roasted suckling pigs as well as Vermont and European meats and cheeses. Every dish at each of the nine stations was a product of Marin's homeland. A one-night-only Slovenian buffet in Burlington? ArtsRiot, take note.
There was a long line at the Mansfield Grill station, which is not uncommon. But usually it's for burgers and fried chicken sandwiches, not for fried meat dumplings from Slovenia's southeastern corner, a region known as Bela Krajina, or White Carniola.
The garlicky pork patties were coated in a batter not unlike thicker tempura, then fried to a golden brown. Imagine a deep-fried hamburger, then multiply it at least a couple of times. The delicious indulgence included a side of Alpine Herdsman Potatoes, a dish not unlike gratin dauphinois, but with onions, bacon and sour cream adding a Germanic taste.
That's only part of what defines Slovenian flavors, though. The small country is surrounded by Austria and Italy in the west and Hungary and Croatia in the east. A mix of specialties from all four makes up the hearty cuisine.
Risotto with chunks of zucchini meshed Italian Parmesan with the pumpkinseed oil popular in Austria for a delicious, wholly Slovenian dish. The arborio rice had turned mushy under the dining hall heat lamps, but the buttery rice tasted so damn good, it didn't matter that the essential bite was missing.
Pumpkinseeds appeared again coating crispy sea bass. The fish itself, dressed in julienned carrots and celery, didn't have the big flavor of other dishes, but the pile of mashed potatoes beneath it did. The creamy spuds were flavored strongly with lemon and mixed with sour cream. It was like the flavor photo negative of most fish and potato dishes.
My favorite savory selections were a pair of stews. A pasta and bean soup called pašta fižol was a thicker, meatier take on Italian pasta e fagioli. Just a hint of acid complemented the smoke emanating from thick chunks of North Country Smokehouse bacon.
As I'm a great lover of Polish food, the Slovenian version of hunters' stew, Pohorje hot pot, reminded me of bigos with beans instead of sauerkraut. In a garlicky red wine sauce, beef pork and venison were braised to tender perfection along with potatoes, mushrooms, bacon and carrots, then studded with chewy barley. If I hadn't already eaten several meals of heavy food, I would have gone back for seconds. But I still had to eat dessert!
I wolfed down the bled crmada so quickly that I didn't even photograph it. It was that delicious. Somewhere between a trifle and bread pudding, the sweet consisted of vanilla and chocolate sponge layered with vanilla custard and softened raisins. Rum simple syrup and carob made the whole thing so moist, the slices simply couldn't hold together. No matter. I ate until I could eat no more. Luckily, a Global Chef comes but once a year.
This year, Slovenian chef Božidar Marin topped Berggren's few offerings by taking over Harris-Millis Unlimited Dining last night. Books on Slovenia crowded a table near the front of the dining hall and native music filled the air. The deli station held two whole-roasted suckling pigs as well as Vermont and European meats and cheeses. Every dish at each of the nine stations was a product of Marin's homeland. A one-night-only Slovenian buffet in Burlington? ArtsRiot, take note.
There was a long line at the Mansfield Grill station, which is not uncommon. But usually it's for burgers and fried chicken sandwiches, not for fried meat dumplings from Slovenia's southeastern corner, a region known as Bela Krajina, or White Carniola.
The garlicky pork patties were coated in a batter not unlike thicker tempura, then fried to a golden brown. Imagine a deep-fried hamburger, then multiply it at least a couple of times. The delicious indulgence included a side of Alpine Herdsman Potatoes, a dish not unlike gratin dauphinois, but with onions, bacon and sour cream adding a Germanic taste.
That's only part of what defines Slovenian flavors, though. The small country is surrounded by Austria and Italy in the west and Hungary and Croatia in the east. A mix of specialties from all four makes up the hearty cuisine.
Risotto with chunks of zucchini meshed Italian Parmesan with the pumpkinseed oil popular in Austria for a delicious, wholly Slovenian dish. The arborio rice had turned mushy under the dining hall heat lamps, but the buttery rice tasted so damn good, it didn't matter that the essential bite was missing.
Pumpkinseeds appeared again coating crispy sea bass. The fish itself, dressed in julienned carrots and celery, didn't have the big flavor of other dishes, but the pile of mashed potatoes beneath it did. The creamy spuds were flavored strongly with lemon and mixed with sour cream. It was like the flavor photo negative of most fish and potato dishes.
My favorite savory selections were a pair of stews. A pasta and bean soup called pašta fižol was a thicker, meatier take on Italian pasta e fagioli. Just a hint of acid complemented the smoke emanating from thick chunks of North Country Smokehouse bacon.
As I'm a great lover of Polish food, the Slovenian version of hunters' stew, Pohorje hot pot, reminded me of bigos with beans instead of sauerkraut. In a garlicky red wine sauce, beef pork and venison were braised to tender perfection along with potatoes, mushrooms, bacon and carrots, then studded with chewy barley. If I hadn't already eaten several meals of heavy food, I would have gone back for seconds. But I still had to eat dessert!
I wolfed down the bled crmada so quickly that I didn't even photograph it. It was that delicious. Somewhere between a trifle and bread pudding, the sweet consisted of vanilla and chocolate sponge layered with vanilla custard and softened raisins. Rum simple syrup and carob made the whole thing so moist, the slices simply couldn't hold together. No matter. I ate until I could eat no more. Luckily, a Global Chef comes but once a year.
Wednesday, February 19, 2014
Locavore Movement And on the (James Beard Award) Beverage Front...
Posted
By Corin Hirsch
on Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 4:18 PM
While it's always exciting to read about the chefs and restaurants nominated for James Beard Foundation Awards, I'm particularly piqued by the bar programs, wine programs and beverage professionals who receive nods from the judges.
So it was both wonderful and gratifying to see Steve Wood, the owner of New Hampshire's Poverty Lane Orchards and Farnum Hill Ciders nominated this year as an "Outstanding Wine, Spirits, or Beer Professional" semifinalist.
Wood is well known within the cider industry for his revival of heirloom apples, his exquisite hard ciders, and his boundless generosity with aspiring growers and cidermakers. More than one cidermaker has told me how Wood shared his knowledge freely with them — and it is extensive, honed over decades of running an orchard. Even though Wood might be thought of primarily as the owner of Farnum Hill, his invisible influence extends throughout the cider industry. Would we have as robust a New England cider scene without him? I doubt it.
Disclosure: Though I don't know him well, Wood is also my Poverty Lane neighbor, so I get to partake of his cider often. He has some stiff competition amongst the other 19 nominees: drinks writer/educator David Wondrich and Tales of the Cocktail founder Ann Tuennerman among them. We hope he makes the second cut. Go Steve!
So it was both wonderful and gratifying to see Steve Wood, the owner of New Hampshire's Poverty Lane Orchards and Farnum Hill Ciders nominated this year as an "Outstanding Wine, Spirits, or Beer Professional" semifinalist.
Wood is well known within the cider industry for his revival of heirloom apples, his exquisite hard ciders, and his boundless generosity with aspiring growers and cidermakers. More than one cidermaker has told me how Wood shared his knowledge freely with them — and it is extensive, honed over decades of running an orchard. Even though Wood might be thought of primarily as the owner of Farnum Hill, his invisible influence extends throughout the cider industry. Would we have as robust a New England cider scene without him? I doubt it.
Disclosure: Though I don't know him well, Wood is also my Poverty Lane neighbor, so I get to partake of his cider often. He has some stiff competition amongst the other 19 nominees: drinks writer/educator David Wondrich and Tales of the Cocktail founder Ann Tuennerman among them. We hope he makes the second cut. Go Steve!
Restaurant News Vermonters Nominated for 2014 James Beard Awards
Posted
By Alice Levitt
on Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 2:47 PM
Will this be the year? The semifinalists for the James Beard Foundation Awards were announced this morning. Vermont's culinary Susan Lucci, Eric Warnstedt of Hen of the Wood, has been nominated for his sixth year running. The Beard Awards are known to foodies as the "culinary Oscars" and it truly is "an honor just to be nominated" for one of the restaurant and chef awards.
Warnstedt isn't the only Vermonter among the 20 cooks nominated for Best Chef: Northeast. Wesley Genovart of South Londonderry's SoLo Farm & Table is also on the short list. It's not the team's first brush with Beard. Genovart's co-owner and wife Chloe was maitre d’ at Per Se Restaurant in New York City when it was awarded for the nation's most outstanding service in 2011.
New England Culinary Institute grad Matt Jennings of Farmstead Inc. in Providence, R.I., is also among the nominees.
Last year was Vermont's biggest ever for nominations. However, 2013 semifinalists Steve Atkins of Richmond's Kitchen Table Bistro, and Aaron Josinsky and Nathaniel Wade of Winooski's Misery Loves Company, did not make the cut this year.
The semifinalists will be whittled to finalists on March 19. That's the same day nominees for books and journalism are also announced. Fingers crossed, Vermont names will be on the list.
Tuesday, February 18, 2014
Alice Eats Alice Eats: Tianxia Restaurant Coréen
Posted
By Alice Levitt
on Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 12:01 PM
Tianxia Restaurant Coréen
2065B rue Bishop, Montréal, QC, 514-288-2065
I have a soft spot for all Korean barbecue, but I'm just too greedy to order a plate each of bulgogi and galbi. That's why, whenever possible, I frequent all-you-can-eat versions of the grill-your-own restaurants. Usually this means a menu composed mostly of meats to cook yourself on the grill on your table. At Tianxia, more than half the menu is fun-size versions of cooked Korean dishes.
After we were seated at the busy, casual restaurant, we were presented with a paper sheet on which to check what we'd like to eat, all for a single price of $20.99, including soft drink (weekday lunches are $13.95). The dishes were only described in French, Chinese and English, without Korean names, so I wasn't always sure what I was getting. But I ordered with abandon despite the $5-per-plate fee for wasting food.
After some petite bowls of cucumbers with yuba, kimchee and dipping sauces, our friendly, if excessively relaxed, server sped out with our meat. Each portion was far more than we usually expect from an AYCEKBBQ place, so we had our work cut out for us. Surprisingly fresh white fish was an unexpected hit for us, especially dipped in the chile, cumin and fennel spice mix provided along with sweet soy-based and sesame-flavored sauces.
The spice mix was similar to the dip that often accompanies Xinjiang-style kebabs. The marinated lamb was the most flavorful of the meats, dressed in a spicy sauce that recalled Chinese grilled skewers. I guess I shouldn't have been surprised. The restaurant does have a Chinese name, after all.
Sadly, the bulgogi, usually my favorite, was lacking the big flavors of the sweet soy-ginger marinade that defines it. The galbi, or short ribs, were tender, but only slightly tastier. Even pork and chicken marinated in a fiery-looking red sauce were surprisingly bland. Worst of all was the beef tongue. Cooked at low heat, it's among the tenderest of meats. At the grill's high temperature, though, it turned into thin, flavorless circles of shoe leather.
Friday, February 14, 2014
Beer (Late) Midweek Swig: The Shed Brewery Nosedive
Posted
By Corin Hirsch
on Fri, Feb 14, 2014 at 2:38 PM
On the food desk, we've been busy planning the newest edition of our annual dining guide, 7Nights, as well as plotting events for a smashing Vermont Restaurant Week. Hence, this late-week edition of the Midweek Swig — I finally got to the "swig" last night.
This week: the Shed Brewery Nosedive, a "robust vanilla porter" (according to the brewery)
Cost: $4.99 for a 22-ounce bottle at Richmond Market & Beverage
Strength: 6.75 percent abv.
The pour: a rich, opaque, cocoa brown with a thumb-width, creamy head that evaporates to a thin lace. It smells like dark-chocolate mocha with a fistful of coffee grounds thrown in, and it appears almost syrupy.
The taste: Though there's barely any bitterness, this tastes bright for a porter — an electric porter? The espresso and cacao flavors are spiked with a noticeable vein of vanilla that somehow doesn't feel integrated, as if it's floating on top. The beer has a subtle cola-like quality, both in texture and taste, as if it were a blend of Coke, Guinness and Rookie's Root Beer, sans sugar.
Drink it with: a snowy night, a chocolate ganache tart, or both.
Backstory: The Shed Brewery (which is housed at Middlebury's Otter Creek Brewing) announced this porter last month as a limited, Vermont-only release. It gains some of its flavor from aging with Madagascar vanilla beans. The folks at Richmond Beverage had only received it a day or so earlier.
Verdict: I wouldn't necessarily call this "robust" — rather, it's sprightly, as if a porter was ambling down the street in bright-yellow rain boots. Still, it's also toasty, malty and don't-think-too-hard-about-it delicious.
Midweek Swig tackles a new liquid release (almost) each week. If you have suggestions for something to sample, send them to corin@sevendaysvt.com.
This week: the Shed Brewery Nosedive, a "robust vanilla porter" (according to the brewery)
Cost: $4.99 for a 22-ounce bottle at Richmond Market & Beverage
Strength: 6.75 percent abv.
The pour: a rich, opaque, cocoa brown with a thumb-width, creamy head that evaporates to a thin lace. It smells like dark-chocolate mocha with a fistful of coffee grounds thrown in, and it appears almost syrupy.
The taste: Though there's barely any bitterness, this tastes bright for a porter — an electric porter? The espresso and cacao flavors are spiked with a noticeable vein of vanilla that somehow doesn't feel integrated, as if it's floating on top. The beer has a subtle cola-like quality, both in texture and taste, as if it were a blend of Coke, Guinness and Rookie's Root Beer, sans sugar.
Drink it with: a snowy night, a chocolate ganache tart, or both.
Backstory: The Shed Brewery (which is housed at Middlebury's Otter Creek Brewing) announced this porter last month as a limited, Vermont-only release. It gains some of its flavor from aging with Madagascar vanilla beans. The folks at Richmond Beverage had only received it a day or so earlier.
Verdict: I wouldn't necessarily call this "robust" — rather, it's sprightly, as if a porter was ambling down the street in bright-yellow rain boots. Still, it's also toasty, malty and don't-think-too-hard-about-it delicious.
Midweek Swig tackles a new liquid release (almost) each week. If you have suggestions for something to sample, send them to corin@sevendaysvt.com.
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