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Monday, August 26, 2019

Drink Up: Taco Gordo

Posted By on Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 4:09 PM

Ariana Grande, chips and salsa, jicama salad - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Ariana Grande, chips and salsa, jicama salad
There are a few ways to tell when a restaurant or bar has become a hangout. Signs of that status have emerged at Taco Gordo:

A woman who grew up in Chittenden County and left long-ago — for college in Montreal, traveling in India, living in NYC, raising kids in the country — comes back to town for a visit. My friend and I meet at Taco Gordo in the Old North End and the first words out of her mouth are something like,  "This place has more hipsters than Brooklyn.”

The number of dogs lazing around the street corner that’s home to Taco Gordo — that ONE beacon where North Union St. dumps into North Winooski Ave. — is on par with the number of picnic tables outside the restaurant.

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Friday, August 16, 2019

Dining on a Dime: Starving Artist Café

Posted By on Fri, Aug 16, 2019 at 6:08 PM

Veggie-stuffed hash special at Starving Artist Café - JORDAN BARRY
  • Jordan Barry
  • Veggie-stuffed hash special at Starving Artist Café
You don't hear much about "full artists," but after stopping for lunch at South Burlington's Starving Artist Café, I think it may be time to flip the trope.

Starving Artist Café is part of Davis Studio, which was founded in 2003 by director Teresa Davis. Located inside a stately tan house with white columns on Shelburne Road in South Burlington, the studio offers classes and camps focused on the arts for creative folks of all ages, from drawing and painting to jewelry making and fused glass work. On a weekday in August, every room was full of young artists putting the right side of their brains to work.

Service counter at Starving Artist Café - JORDAN BARRY
  • Jordan Barry
  • Service counter at Starving Artist Café
The café itself has been open for three years, and offers counter service for breakfast and lunch during the week and a full-service weekend brunch. Walking through the front door feels like entering someone's home, with a maze of cozy, art-covered rooms vying for attention.

My dining companions (two writers from the Seven Days arts team, appropriately) and I made a wrong turn trying to find the café's service counter and took a detour through the bustling dining room before spying the "order here" sign — we brushed it off as trying to engage the creative side of our brains, too.

Finally in the right place, we grabbed menus and tried to decide between the aptly named breakfast and lunch offerings. Was I in the mood for Monet's Garden Omelette, Matisse in Morocco, or Vincent Van Goghgurt?

Always pro-breakfast (which is served all day at the Starving Artist), I ordered one of the day's specials: a vegetable-stuffed hash with sunny-side-up eggs and cheddar ($12). One coworker went for a sandwich with bacon, cheddar, maple-and-bourbon onion jam ($10). The other opted for a classic grilled cheese ($6) with a cup of tomato-basil soup ($3.50).

We grabbed water and coffee from the self-service station and headed into the gallery room to find an open table. The walls were covered in food-related 
From left: Bacon, cheddar, maple-and-bourbon onion jam sandwich; veggie hash special; grilled cheese and tomato-basil soup - JORDAN BARRY
  • Jordan Barry
  • From left: Bacon, cheddar, maple-and-bourbon onion jam sandwich; veggie hash special; grilled cheese and tomato-basil soup
art, upon which we feasted our eyes while we waited for our meals to arrive. 

At the far end of the long, open room, young artists returned to their tables. We braced ourselves, ready for the noise level to go way up.

We must have been channelling our own post-lunch behavior back in our school days, though, because this was a quiet, focused group. The instructor told us this was the Advanced Drawing Camp, full of talented, diligent artists in middle and high school. Impressed, we tried to keep our voices down so we wouldn't distract them from their work.

The chef brought our food to the table, and my hash could have been a Cézanne still life. The eggs' bright-yellow yolk and perfectly crisped edges popped on top of a hefty pile of hash, sprinkled with microgreens for color and crunch. The hash was a mix of potatoes, spinach, mushrooms and sweet cherry tomatoes, bound together with Vermont cheddar. I poked the tines of my fork into the yolks, letting them drip down into the crispy hash. We didn't have to worry about keeping our voices down any more; none of us said a word while we chowed down.

Feeling full and inspired, we bussed our dishes and headed toward the door. On the way out, I noticed a group of chefs in a side room. These were slightly smaller than the chef who had prepared our lunch, but decked out in colorfully painted aprons and chef hats. It was the Artsy Chef camp, for 8-12 year olds.

For these campers, food is the medium instead of oils and acrylics. The artists create edible landscapes and fantastical centerpieces like pineapple alligators and eggplant owls, as well as decorative cupcakes and precise bento boxes. If preregistration weren't required (and adults were allowed), I would have stayed there all afternoon.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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Thursday, August 15, 2019

Mad Taco, Dedalus and More to Open in Middlebury

Posted By on Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 9:15 AM


Stone Mill in Middlebury - COURTESY OF COMMUNITY BARN VENTURES
  • Courtesy of Community Barn Ventures
  • Stone Mill in Middlebury
A collection of food businesses will open in Middlebury in the fall as part of a development project at the Stone Mill, an 1840 building on Otter Creek that was formerly owned by Middlebury College.

The project at 3 Mill Street is the first Vermont development project spearheaded by Community Barn Real Estate. The company is an affiliate of Community Barn Ventures, a business founded in the fall of 2017 by Addison County business partners Mary Cullinane and Stacey Rainey.

Cullinane and Rainey purchased the 9,000-square-foot building for $500,000 in January 2019 and expect its $1 million renovation to be complete in late September, they said.

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Monday, August 5, 2019

Sorriso Closed; Mimmo's to Replace It With Third Restaurant

Posted By on Mon, Aug 5, 2019 at 3:06 PM

Sign outside Sorriso on Shelburne Road - MELISSA PASANEN
  • Melissa Pasanen
  • Sign outside Sorriso on Shelburne Road
A third location of Mimmo’s Pizzeria & Restaurant will replace Sorriso this month at 408 Shelburne Road on the border of Burlington and South Burlington.

Owner Domenico “Mimmo” Spano opened the original Mimmo’s in St. Albans in 1995 and launched a second in Essex Junction about 17 years ago. The restaurants are known for their pizza, pasta dishes, hero sandwiches and salads, such as the signature balsamic chicken.

The former KFC in South Burlington has been a revolving door for local restaurants over the past few years; Sorriso opened there in November 2018. Owner Amir Jusufagic closed the Italian-themed eatery last Wednesday and would comment only that “it was a business decision.”

Spano said he’s been looking for the right location for another Mimmo’s for the past 15 years, but nothing had gelled until this opportunity. He is doing some renovation to the space, ‘just making it into a Mimmo’s,” he said. The menu will be the same as at the sister restaurants. “We want our customers to have a predictable experience,” Spano said.

The new Mimmo’s will hold a soft opening event around August 22 before opening fully by the end of the month, Spano said.

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Friday, August 2, 2019

Dining on a Dime: August First Bakery

Posted By on Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 2:26 PM

The Vermonter at August First Bakery - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • The Vermonter at August First Bakery
Ten years ago, when August First Bakery opened on South Champlain Street in Burlington, the café donated its first-day sales — about $300 — to King Street Center, a neighboring nonprofit organization.

On Thursday, to celebrate its 10th anniversary, August First once again donated 100 percent of its sales for the day to the nonprofit that provides programs and services for young people. This time, the restaurant wrote a check for $9,338.57 to King Street, said Jodi Whalen, who owns the restaurant with her husband Phil Merrick.

Whalen explained that, as a child growing up in small-town Pennsylvania, she was “personally touched” by adults who worked at organizations similar to King Street. Their positive influence on Whalen “helped me to become the woman I am personally and professionally,” she told Seven Days.

“We love the work that King Street Center does for children and families in our community,” Whalen added. “And we feel that it is our responsibility as business owners to give back.”

I pitched in a pittance of the total, $12, for a sandwich that served two. I ate half  the sandwich, called the Vermonter, at August First; my daughter took her share to North Beach.  The smoked turkey sandwich with cheddar cheese, apple slices, lettuce and red onion was a hit for both of us.

“It was even good cheese,” said my college-age kid, who routinely removes cheese from her sandwiches. (WTF?!) “I didn’t even take it off!”

My lemonade was free at August First, made by two Burlington middle school students who attend programs at King Street. Bree McDonald and Yusuf Ibrahim, both 12 years old, usually make and serve lemonade at King Street’s stand on the Church Street Marketplace.
Yusuf Ibrahim (left) and Bree McDonald - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Yusuf Ibrahim (left) and Bree McDonald
Thursday, they squeezed lemons and shook the drink outside August First. It was a steady gig, but the soon-to-be seventh graders took time to tell me about the after-school program at King Street.

“We have a gym, a playground, and we go on different trips,” said Yusuf, who added that he likes to play tennis there. Bree said she especially enjoys playing dodgeball and basketball in the gym.

Both kids ate lunch at August First that day: Yusuf had a turkey BLT; Bree ate the tomato-mozzarella-basil sandwich and gave a shout-out to its pesto.
They also praised the day’s mission of raising money for the center.

“I think it’s pretty nice of them to do that,” Bree said.

Yusuf concurred: “It’s pretty cool,” he said, “cause it’s nice for King Street.”
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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