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Friday, September 29, 2017

Dining on a Dime: Canteen Creemee in Waitsfield

Posted By on Fri, Sep 29, 2017 at 5:45 PM

Burger topped with BBQ pork - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Burger topped with BBQ pork
Few drives in Vermont are prettier than Route 100 south of Waterbury. After meandering through a handful of small towns, the road takes a series of curves that pass by cliffs, waterfalls and trees whose boughs bend over the road and obscure the sky. During foliage season, the route is exquisite.

But there's one important thing to do first: Make a pit stop at Canteen Creemee. Located in a shopping center in Waitsfield — the same one that's home to the original Mad Taco — the snack bar offers exceptionally delicious road food.

For instance, a BBQ burger ($9.50). Served in a classic cardboard "boat," the beef patty is topped with lettuce, cheese, fried onions and saucy pulled pork. The goods come on a classic soft roll sprinkled with sesame seeds.
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Or, you could go for the three-piece fried chicken ($9.75), which arrives with slices of corn pudding, coleslaw and a scattering of pickled carrots and onions. The thin crust on the chicken is crisp and delicious, and the meat itself is well flavored. The corn pudding is delectable, sweet and salty, and particularly welcome to anyone who's chewed through too many squares of dry cornbread.
A Bad Larry - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • A Bad Larry
If you can spare another few bucks, go for one of the creative creemee sundaes, such as the Bad Larry ($6.25), which is as maple-y as food gets. The maple creemee is sprinkled with maple cookie crumbs and topped with a cloud of maple cotton candy.

Once you've licked the last bits of creemee from your hand, you can safely get back on the road again.

During leaf-peeping season, Canteen Creemee will be open on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. When shoulder season hits, says owner Charlie Menard, he'll take a break until the holidays.


Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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Tuesday, September 26, 2017

Dining on a Dime: Tiny Thai in Winooski

Posted By on Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 10:15 AM

Pad Krapow Moo Grob - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Pad Krapow Moo Grob
Sometimes, being on a real life "dining on a dime" budget can get a girl down. If you've got the chills and want a little bit of soup, but that means you won't be able to afford an entrée, what is there to do?

The answer: bring a friend. With two people, dining on a dime can feel a lot more luxurious. Order an appetizer or a dessert, a hearty dish and a veggie side, and you can experience a variety of tastes — for less.

Case in point: a dinner at Tiny Thai. For years, I'd been in the habit of ordering the sweet and creamy massaman curry ($12), with potatoes and sweet potatoes, or the spicier pad kee maow — aka drunken noodles ($11). More recently, I'd discovered the selection of dishes on the "Genuine Thai Menu" page, most of which are a little more pricey.
Papaya salad - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Papaya salad
In order to spring for a more expensive entrée, my companion and I settled on a cup of tom yam soup ($3) and some green papaya salad ($5) as appetizers. And we ordered the traditional pad krapow moo grob ($16) for a total of exactly $24 — or $12 each. Bam! The soup, which came with an ample portion of mushroom slices bobbing on the surface, was less fiery than some versions I've had and a touch sweeter. It was full-bodied and well balanced — great for early fall. Similarly, the vinegary fish sauce dressing on the green papaya salad was just right, and the slivers of unripe fruit were crisp, yet yielding.

Even better was the main course, made of chunky cubes of pork belly, crisped, and tossed with green beans, bamboo stalks, and peppers. This dish was spicy, with slivers of red chile dotting the dish. On top were deep-fried basil leaves, translucent and friable.
Roasted squash with sticky rice - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Roasted squash with sticky rice
If you're one who finds dessert more compelling than salads, swap out the green papaya, and swap in a piece of buttercup squash ($5), baked with a custard filling, and served with coconut sticky rice.

It's hard to go wrong with any of the food at Tiny Thai. But if you want the best bang for your buck, be sure to share.

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Monday, September 18, 2017

Citizen Cider to Expand in Burlington

Posted By on Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 5:07 PM

Apple cider tanker truck at Citizen Cider on Pine Street - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Apple cider tanker truck at Citizen Cider on Pine Street
Citizen Cider will begin work in two weeks on an expansion to its business that will bring a portion of  its hard-cider production to a second site in Burlington, cofounder Justin Heilenbach told Seven Days.

The cidery with a production facility and taproom on Pine Street will move its apple-pressing operation from Middlebury to 180 Flynn Avenue,  Heilenbach said.  Currently,  apples are pressed in Middlebury and transported to Burlington in a tanker truck filled with apple cider.

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Friday, September 15, 2017

Dining on a Dime: UVM FeelGood

Posted By on Fri, Sep 15, 2017 at 4:27 PM

Sandwich makers at UVM FeelGood - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Sandwich makers at UVM FeelGood
It's hard to find a $4 or $5 sandwich in downtown Burlington. In fact, the price is often double that, or more. But if you head uphill to the University of Vermont, you'll find a little sandwich outpost that is pay-by-donation with a suggested price of $4 to $5.

UVM FeelGood
  makes one kind of sandwich, and it happens to be the best kind: grilled cheese. The eatery is an all-volunteer, student-run lunch counter on the ground floor of the Dudley Davis Center.  It makes grilled cheese sandwiches in a panini press — and donates all proceeds to Commitment Fund 2030, a poverty-relief  organization that distributes money to four nonprofits.

People pay what they choose and can customize their grilled-cheese sandwich with ingredients including hot sauce, pesto, apple slices, maple syrup and onions. Open three days a week for lunch, UVM FeelGood raises about $13,000 a semester, according to treasurer Sara Fergus.

When I showed up on Wednesday afternoon, five young women behind the counter were volunteering their time: taking orders, collecting money, prepping and grilling sandwiches. The students thanked each customer with enthusiasm and good cheer, no matter what the person paid.

"Can I do $3?" one customer asked.

"Awesome!" came the reply.
Grilled cheese sandwich from UVM FeelGood - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Grilled cheese sandwich from UVM FeelGood
Although I'm a fan of what FeelGood calls the "Plain Jane" — grilled cheese with no embellishments — I decided to try the weekly special. "Savoring Summer" came with carrots, onions, peppers and zucchini, little chunks of vegetables atop the cheese and between two big slices of  whole wheat bread.

The café uses crumbled cheddar rather than slices to makes its sandwiches. As a grilled cheese aficionado, I wondered how well the cheese would melt. But this proved to be a needless concern: The cheese was melty, the bread toasty but not greasy, and the veggies didn't tumble out as I scarfed down the sandwich on a concrete-slab bench outside the Davis Center.

UVM FeelGood uses local ingredients and receives donations from area businesses. Klinger's Bread Company in South Burlington and Red Hen Baking Co.  in Middlesex give bread to the nonprofit. The cheese is from Shelburne Farms, which provides the café with about 40 pounds of cheddar every two weeks during the school year at or below cost, according to the farm.

I love the packaging used by FeelGood — a little brown paper bag with the edge of the sandwich peeking out, tempting me. You can't beat the frill-less dining atmosphere, either,  eating outside on a mid-September day at UVM, watching students parading past. I was pleased to donate downtown prices and pay $10 for the experience and cause.
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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Friday, September 8, 2017

Dining on a Dime: Mad River Taste Place

Posted By on Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 5:05 PM

Cheese board at Mad River Taste Place - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Cheese board at Mad River Taste Place
Before dining on a dime in Waitsfield, I sat on a nickel.

On a made-in-Vermont swing through the Mad River Valley, I stopped for a peek at the Bundy Modern. Wow!  The stunning hillside gallery in a private home in Waitsfield is exhibiting the work of southern Vermont artist Johnny Swing through September 10.  (Read the Seven Days review here.) Many of Swing's pieces are made of money, including a low-slung couch of welded nickels that I sat on gingerly — mindful of the $150,000 price tag. Swing's chair of pennies is listed for a cool quarter mill.

With those prices in mind, I felt like I hit the bargain basement when I got to the Mad River Taste Place.  The priciest cheese, Sunrise from Mt. Mansfield Creamery, sells for $31.99 a pound. Most are in the $16 to $20 per pound price range, and all are made locally.

The Vermont specialty shop opened two months ago in a former bank in a strip mall off Route 100.  A big rock at the end of the driveway blocks people from driving up to the erstwhile teller window. But you can enter by foot through a door at the back side of the building.

The high-ceilinged shop is filled with Vermont products including chocolates, breads, birch syrup, honey and booze.  The old bank vault stores a new set of valuables: cheese and beer.  Cheese, in fact, is the main product at the Taste Place, which has a rotating, seasonal cast of about 55 Vermont cheeses in its deli case out of 80 total varieties.
Cheese case at Mad River Taste Place - SALLY POLLAK
  • Sally Pollak
  • Cheese case at Mad River Taste Place
Though the business is mostly a retail shop, you can eat a cheese and charcuterie board in-house. My friend and I shared the $13 plate and it was plenty of food for two — with three types of cheese, hard salami, a small bowl of jam, and matzoh from Patchwork Farm and Bakery in Hardwick. Customers can select their own cheeses, almost a daunting task, or get guidance from the welcoming and well-informed staff.  We paired our late-afternoon meal with a lovely saison from 1st Republic Brewery in Essex Junction.

For leaf peepers looking for  a Vermont snack, Mad River Taste Place is a fun place to pull over. Just steer clear of the old drive-through lane.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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