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Tuesday, August 30, 2016

Farmers Market Kitchen: Now-and-Later Summer Salsa

Posted By on Tue, Aug 30, 2016 at 3:32 PM

Harvest ferments: dilly beans, salsa, kimchi-kraut, oh my! - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Harvest ferments: dilly beans, salsa, kimchi-kraut, oh my!
I'm inclined to deny autumn an early start. But as peak produce season shifts into foggy nights and cool, dewy mornings, I've been processing summer vegetables with undeniable urgency. In the last week, I've canned tomatoes and kimchi-kraut, and partnered with friends and neighbors to squirrel away dilly beans and salsa, too.

On Sunday, a girlfriend and I made this spicy, fresh-flavored pico de gallo, using garden tomatoes and garlic, plus poblanos and onions that I grabbed from  Putting Down Roots Farm at Chelsea farmers market last Friday. It's fab the moment you make it, so ladle some off and enjoy it right away. But given a few days to develop, the salsa's flavor deepens to a tart, extra-spicy (and extra-healthy, probiotic) mélange.  

For folks who are new to making their own fermented foods, this is a really nice newbie recipe. Unlike kimchi or even sauerkraut, it's a snap to make, and the resulting salsa is familiar and accessible to every palate. 

Once you've fermented it at room temperature for several days, stick it in the fridge. It'll last about a month, for continued summer-y enjoyment, even after the first frost.

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Saturday, August 27, 2016

Breakfast Club: Maple Walnut Biscotti at Village Wine and Coffee

Posted By on Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 8:00 AM

Iced coffee and maple walnut biscotti at Village Wine and Coffee in Shelburne - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • Iced coffee and maple walnut biscotti at Village Wine and Coffee in Shelburne
Biscotti are seemingly simple staples of coffee breaks. The durable, crusty cookies are used to soak up a cup of dark roast or cold brew sweetened with cream. With a bit of liquid, they become pliable and palatable. I’ve never liked them.

Let me rephrase that: I’ve never liked the ones found in many cafés, where biscotti sit for weeks in a glass jar becoming ever harder, ever drier and ever more “biscotti-like.” Biscotti get a bad rep next to tender-crumb scones and croissants, butter-permeated from the inside out. While toast springs from the oven warm and fresh and ready for jam, biscotti sit dejectedly in jars. But this is not how it was meant to be.

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Friday, August 26, 2016

Dining on a Dime: A 'Gourmet' Asian Lunch

Posted By on Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 1:10 PM

Asian Gourmet's no-frills sushi combo: spicy tuna, yellowtail-and-scallion, California roll - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Asian Gourmet's no-frills sushi combo: spicy tuna, yellowtail-and-scallion, California roll

When was the last time you lunched on a cheap-o Bento box? Or an $8 midday sushi special? 

For me, such meals recall a time in the mid-aughts, when I was a broke college kid (or recent post-grad) just getting to know food from beyond New England. Usually alone, and living in Colorado Springs or Chicago, I'd bike to some hole-in-the-wall sushi joint and order the lunch special. For $8 to $12, I'd get five to seven pieces of nigiri and a California roll, or maybe three basic maki. Once in a while, I'd mix it up with tempura or dumplings.

The servers invariably spoke minimal English. But they were nonintrusive and efficient; some at my regular haunts knew my standard order, and they'd just nod and bring it over. Between bites of unadorned fish and nibbles of sticky rice, I'd read a book or the newspaper. 

The food was nothing special. But it was fresh (even the seediest sushi spots know better than to serve past-prime fish), and I could sort of afford it.  Those quiet solo sojourns felt grown-up, cosmopolitan, modern. 

Then one day (perhaps at a pinnacle of broke-ness), I stopped going. My mind mothballed the meals in some corner of my memory.

Until yesterday, that is, when occasion landed me at Asian Gourmet in Barre. The pan-Asian menu meanders through pages of steamed meats and veggies, udon noodle bowls, pad Thai and Chinese American plates like General Tsao's chicken. Japanese offerings include tempura, gyoza and signature maki rolls stuffed with eel and cucumber and avocado or tuna-times-two and double tobiko. During lunch, few dishes break $10.

And on the very last page I spotted a sushi special with circa-2004 prices. Sashimi or nigiri plus a roll and miso soup was $8 to $12; two- or three-roll combos cost the same.

I went for the $12 three-roll special (my old-time go-to, which always seemed like the best value), with spicy tuna, yellowtail and California roll. Another time, I might choose a Bento box with teriyaki, tempura or negimaki (rolled meat with scallions). That includes salad, California roll, fruit and petite shrimp dumplings for $8 to $10. Or maybe, a Chinese entrée with soup and rice for $6 or $7. 

The fish was clean, cool and fresh. As at the pared-down spots of my past, I savored the virtue of keeping basics basic.

This time, I ate with a girlfriend instead of a book. But as we caught up over tiny glasses of sake under a tree on the porch, steps above the tractor-trailers and dump trucks rolling down Route 302,  the food tasted like reconnecting with an old, familiar friend.

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Where Am I Eating?

Posted By on Tue, Aug 23, 2016 at 8:30 AM

Hash brown, sausage, salad - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Hash brown, sausage, salad
Update, Tuesday, August 23: Whew, that was quick! Jordan Redell guessed the correct answer — Monarch & the Milkweed, newly open in downtown Burlington — just eight minutes after the contest went live. Good work, Jordan! 

Remember this game? We post a picture of a recent meal, and the first person to correctly identify the location wins a restaurant gift card. Sweet deal! 
A little ketchup - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • A little ketchup

So, where am I eating?  

Wherever it was, let me just say that the food was really, really delicious. 
Also, when I asked for a "little ketchup," they took my request literally. 

Post the name of the restaurant in the comment section below. If you're the first to correctly identify it, you win!

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Friday, August 19, 2016

Dining on a Dime: $8 Cheeseburger at Worthy Burger

Posted By on Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 3:15 PM

$8 cheddar cheeseburger at Worthy Burger - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • $8 cheddar cheeseburger at Worthy Burger
Some days in the summer I mainly eat tomatoes, bread and doorstop-worthy wedges of cheese to avoid the heat of the kitchen. When I’m not cooking for work, my August meals are often a hodgepodge assembly of things that don’t need fire to be palatable.

To be sure, one of the finest things about summer is a heavy, ripe tomato sliced and slicked in olive oil — the heel reserved for coarse salt and eaten in three bites over the sink. Yet there comes a time when I’m hit with a meat craving that halts me mid-stride. Red meat, specifically. A thick, stacked, pub-style cheeseburger. Eaten outside with a beer so cold it hurts my teeth, which is only the proper temperature for beer when it's 90 degrees outside with 85 percent humidity.

That’s how I ended up on the shaded patio at Worthy Burger last weekend.

After perusing a swoon-worthy draft list stocked with rotating local gems — such as Hill Farmstead, Burlington Beer Company, Zero Gravity and Tunbridge’s recently opened Upper Pass Beer Co. — I tucked into a cheddar cheeseburger and a draft of Swamp Monster in Love, newcomer River Roost’s crisp, biting pale ale. The patty was fat and gloriously funky from its former life as a grass-grazing cow from the town next door. It was grilled to a blushing medium rare by the wood fire crackling in Worthy’s open kitchen, and trimmed with Plymouth cheddar, lettuce, red onion and a slab of tomato.

At only $8 ($7 without the cheese) for a wood-grilled, locally raised and grass-fed cheeseburger with quality accoutrements, this burger quelled my animal-meat craving without eating my wallet in the process. My date and I also split an order of beef-tallow fries and a zippy, perfectly acidic plate of housemade pickles for less than $4 each, which still kept me at my $12 budget. 

Nestled in a renovated railway house along South Royalton's train tracks, Worthy Burger is a proper name for such a sterling pitstop. Bonus note: Next door's South Royalton Market has a freezer full of ice cream sandwiches and hard-to-find growler fills from three rotating taps.
At Worthy Burger in South Royalton - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • At Worthy Burger in South Royalton

Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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Breakfast Club: Tomato Season, With Bread and Egg

Posted By on Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 7:01 AM

Bread, tomato, egg - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Bread, tomato, egg
Ready for a sublime and simple tomato-season breakfast?

Head to Brotbakery in Fairfax, which is open  Friday afternoons, now through Thanksgiving. Grab a loaf of Hieke Meyer's masterful sourdough (also available at Burlington's City Market/Onion River Co-op on Wednesdays, and at Hudak Farmstore  in Swanton on Fridays).  Lop off a slice of bread; fry it in hot olive oil along with a crispy egg, sunny side up.

Cut a fresh-fresh, juicy tomato into hearty slivers; layer these over the bread and sprinkle with salt. Toss the egg on top; Scatter fresh basil if you've got it. 

Doesn't get much better than that, folks.

Breakfast Club is a series that explores what we eat in the morning. Do you have a favorite? Drop us a line at food@sevendaysvt.com.

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Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Lunch at La Garagista Farm With Wine Writer Alice Feiring

Posted By on Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 7:55 AM

Table set for lunch at La Garagista Farm and Winery - JULIA CLANCY
  • Julia Clancy
  • Table set for lunch at La Garagista Farm and Winery
Caleb Barber greets me at my car window as I pull up to La Garagista's home vineyard in Barnard for lunch. It’s still early. By noon, the table will be decked in checkered tablecloth and strewn with vine leaves, Queen Anne’s lace and herbs from the garden. Long-necked bottles of field blend rosé and La Crescent whites will be tucked in an old washbasin with ice for chilling. Barber will slice thick tiles of homemade pancetta, and the guys from Shacksbury Cider and Fable Farm will arrive with bottles of cider in tow for tasting.

But for now, in the sleepy morning hour, Barber leads me to his porch overlooking the mountains for a glass of water and a piece of grape cake in the kitchen.

Alice Feiring, the lauded wine writer, emerges from Barber's guest room with a notepad and camera. To call Feiring a “lauded wine writer” is an understatement, and I’m momentarily tongue-tied (which I attribute to careful chewing of the grape cake).  An open advocate of natural wine, Feiring is a significant voice in the wine world as a writer for publications such as Time magazine, the New York Times, New York Magazine, Forbes Traveler, the LA Times and the San Francisco Chronicle. She has three of her own books and just finished a fourth, which she calls “a most unusual wine guide” that she’s “very glad to be rid of — it was grueling to write.”

There’s a James Beard Foundation Award in her history as well, but the laurel I like best comes from the San Francisco Bay Guardian, which has dubbed Feiring “the high priestess of natural wines.”

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Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Farmers Market Kitchen: Currant Whiskey Smash

Posted By on Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 4:39 PM

Currant whiskey smash - HANNAH PALMER EGAN
  • Hannah Palmer Egan
  • Currant whiskey smash
Many drinkers stick to clear, clean liquors like gin or vodka when the weather is hot. But with ample ice and a shot of tart fruit, whiskey can make a cocktail as light and refreshing as any greyhound or gin fizz around. 

A few months ago, Stonecutter Sprits released its Heritage Cask Whiskey According to co-owner Sas Stewart, it's "distilled like bourbon, aged like Irish whiskey and finished like Scotch." Whatever the process, it's a smooth, woody  spirit with a vanilla nose and notes of dark fruit and clove, with an off-dry, spicy finish.

Since the bottle retails for about $60, I like to savor it as a sipping whiskey. But it also makes a fine cocktail.

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Monday, August 15, 2016

Monarch & the Milkweed Opens in Burlington

Posted By on Mon, Aug 15, 2016 at 12:19 PM

Andrew LeStourgeon completes an opera cake at Hen of the Wood - FILE PHOTO: MATTHEW THORSEN
  • File Photo: Matthew Thorsen
  • Andrew LeStourgeon completes an opera cake at Hen of the Wood
After months of recipe testing, tweaking and perfecting, Burlington’s Monarch & the Milkweed soft-opened Monday, August 15  in the St. Paul Street space formerly occupied by Guild Fine Meats. The “fine diner” will serve breakfast every day this week, and will add lunch and dinner in the next couple weeks.


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Friday, August 12, 2016

Dining on a Dime: $20 Viking Feast for Two at Colchester's Mead Hall

Posted By on Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 3:31 PM

Three kinds of herring with three kinds of cheese - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Three kinds of herring with three kinds of cheese
It wasn't hard for me to convince my friend and dance teacher, Jon Bacon Jr., to have lunch with me. "I'm going to a mead hall," I explained. "You'll have to eat herring." Sold. 

Neither Beowulf nor Grendel were in sight as we pulled up at Colchester's Mead Hall, located inside of the Groennfell and Havoc meaderies, fairly close to Costco. 

The interior is all working meadery, with floor-to-ceiling vats, stacks of cans and a bar at which to order libations and snacks. 

After trying free samples of a variety of dry, clean-tasting honey wines — including one flavored with apple and vanilla and another with cranberries — we settled down at a high table, mugs in hand, and awaited our food. 

Mead - SUZANNE PODHAIZER
  • Suzanne Podhaizer
  • Mead
In order to "dine on a dime," we shared the $20 Viking Feast platter, and it turned out to be plenty: herring three ways (my favorite was the variation with mustard, but the sour cream and wine versions were also fishy and delicious), a trio of  Scandinavian cheeses (Gjetost, Jarlsberg and Danablu), dark bread, a pair of bratwurst, and Danish beets, which were cooked for a long time and tasted of the sea. All of the food items are available singly, too. 

Sometimes it's hard to ride the line between authenticity and caricature. Colchester's Mead Hall strikes the perfect balance of good cheer and serious attention to the quality of its products. I will definitely return. 

P.S. Luckily, it was nothing like this: 

...Then was this mead-house at morning tide 
dyed with gore, when the daylight broke, 
all the boards of the benches blood-besprinkled, 
gory the hall: I had heroes the less, 
doughty dear-ones that death had reft. 
— But sit to the banquet, unbind thy words, 
hardy hero, as heart shall prompt thee.” 
Gathered together, the Geatish men 
in the banquet-hall on bench assigned, 
sturdy-spirited, sat them down, 
hardy-hearted. A henchman attended, 
carried the carven cup in hand, 
served the clear mead. 

—From "Beowulf," translated by Francis B. Gummere
Dining on a Dime is a weekly series featuring well-made, filling bites (something substantial enough to qualify as a small meal or better) for $12 or less. Know of a tasty dish we should feature? Drop us a line: food@sevendaysvt.com.

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